This Indian restaurant in a warehouse conversion holds some surprising food inside.

The Venue
Down a narrow cobbled street on the edge of SE1, the Bengal Clipper sits southside of the river in Cardamom Building. An eighties warehouse conversion by Sir Terence Conran, the restaurant still has some original fittings. The lane itself is beautiful, with slanted bridges overhead and exposed brickwork so the boxy space is something of a letdown for such a gorgeous location.

The Atmosphere
The ambience harks back to the ‘70s, with cheap laminate and polyester curtains. A psychedelic carpet shocks the eyes and numbs the brain. But beautiful pastel paintings on the life of Krishna keep you from a hasty exit and soothe the senses until seated.

The Food
Start off with golden crispy dinner-plate sized poppadoms that delicately crunch under pressure. Dip said into thin green mint yoghurt, pale orange mango chutney or a dangerously red concoction loaded with chillis.

With dishes like Golda Chingri or giant prawns in a mild aromatic sauce, seafood lovers will have found heaven. Recognisable side orders such as fluffy Peshwari naan bread become a royal treat in the hands of these expert chefs. An everyday Keema naan stuffed with tender minced lamb, its juices soaked into the bread, is heaven-sent. Pointy pilau rice is lightly fragranced with bay leaves, ginger, cinnamon and smoky tumeric - sticky perfection.

The most pricey (and possibly spicy) dish of Golda Chingri Pardanashin is on-budget at £15.50. The menu says it tastes of coconut, it even arrives in a coconut, but it is red, angry and chilli hot. Coconuts aside, flawlessly sauteed giant prawns tasting of the sea have been bathed in a sauce of spinach, tomato, onion and a chilli. A dish to remember, not to mention to clear one’s sinuses.

The Drink
A Bengal Clipper Birthday Special made of orange-flavoured Cointreau, sweet white rum, sour blue Curacao and herby golden Galliano tingles your toes and turns your tongue blue. A mermaid etched glass of Sauvignal Blanc Bodegas Lauea 2006 for £4.50 clears the palate of spices. Bottles of wine range from £15.00 for a bottle of Chateau Musar 2000 from the Lebanon to a £125.00 Sassicaia D.O.C. 2002/4 Tenuta San Guido. Unusually, Moldova in Eastern Europe is also represented, otherwise the usual selection of French, Italian and Spanish regions abound. Cobra and Tiger beers are also served.

The Last Word
Ignore the decor and focus on the food, which is more than worth the price.

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