It’s got the requisite award-winning chef, the standard hyperbole and the same impressive prices, yet this Brick Lane curry house seems just that little bit better than much of the local competition.

The Venue
Located at the beginning of Brick Lane, Bengal Cuisine is a little walk away from the maddening bustle of the earnest pleas and desperate invitations from door-hanging waiters in waistcoats. Consequently everything feels a little more relaxed down this end, offering those that have the strength to make it through all that well-honed patter a more sedate Brick Lane dining experience. The interior is modern and relatively stylish too, with curved chairs, round-edged walls, buffed original wood flooring and a couple of large flat screen televisions pumping out Bollywood music videos to make sure things are kept upbeat. The white of the walls, tables and bar makes things feel clean and precise, whilst floor to ceiling windows snake around two walls, offering views of Brick Lane life meandering idly by. A couple of little marks on the tablecloth affect impressions a little, but it’s no biggie - they could even be construed as a reassuring reminder of the area you’re eating in, lest you forget.

The Atmosphere
Thanks to the more relaxed approach to its diners, Bengal Cuisine doesn’t follow the get them in, get them out policy that’s the status quo for much of the competition, so don’t expect plates plonked down, swiftly followed by the bill. There’s a good mix of clientele too, with touristy types rubbing elbows with locals, and nearby office workers clinking cutlery next to a table full of friends of the owner. However, it’s the relaxed, slower approach to the experience that’s a pleasantly refreshing change, nicely removed from the typical Brick Lane whirlwind where you leave feeling full but somewhat giddy. Similarly, service is exemplary and considered, so expect to actually want to leave a tip.

The Food
The clue’s is in the name, with an extensive menu reflecting the diversity of Bengali cuisine and serving up some pretty tasty options whilst it’s at it. That oft-reliable indicator of what lies in store, the humble onion bhaji (£2.50 for two), suggests good things, being neither too oily and soggy like some, nor over-fried, instead boasting a gentle crisp giving way to tasty diced onion and lentils. The king prawn puri at £4.50 is also worth a try, with marinated pieces of king prawn in a sweet, spicy sauce served on a gently fried piece of Bengali bread. It’s only let down by an accompanying salad that borders on the insipid thanks to lethargic bits of lettuce, tomato and onion.

Mains are pretty good, with a particularly tasty chicken pathia offering reasonable value at £7.95. The chicken is soft, tender and impeccably cooked, immersed in a sweet, sour and spicy sauce that has just the tiniest hint of cinnamon. Freshly chopped coriander liberally sprinkled over the top gives it a nice freshness. The khashi makhani (£8.95) fares equally well, with char-grilled strips of lamb that are only a tiny bit overdone being flavoured with fenugreek before being cooked with tomatoes, butter, ground spices and a creamy, sweet and not particularly spicy sauce that tastes not dissimilar to a korma. Shaved, coloured almonds give it a bit of a crunch whilst also brightening up what’s an already attractive, tasty dish. Sides are pretty standard affairs, with fragrant pilau rice (£2.95) being perfectly al dente; naan breads (£2.50) being excellent; and the chick pea chana masala (£3.95) being dry, spicy and a tiny bit sour – just as it should be.

The Drink
There’s none of the bring your own policy here, with curry house stalwarts Cobra and Kingfisher on tap and not badly priced at £3.50 for what are crisp beers that are always popular with curry-munchers. There’s a decent enough wine list – though it’s hardly extensive – with a house red that comes in at a very reasonable £9.95 and is so fruity and quaffable that it’s almost perfect for subduing those fiery spices. If you’re laying off the booze then there’s plenty of soft options, with lemonade, coke, bottled water, mango juice, orange juice and pineapple juice all at £2.50.

The Last Word
With so many myths, legends and downright porkies attributed to Brick Lane curry houses it’s difficult to know which ones to try. So if you’re looking for a safe bet that’s just that little bit more refined than most, give Bengal Cuisine a try.

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