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The Londoner's Guide to London
07 October 2008
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Bertorelli

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44a Floral Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2E 9DA

0872 148 4015 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byEmma Harper12/10/2007
Bertorelli is a well regarded London institution with a number of prime locations in the heart of the city. A safe bet for Italian staples and set menus at reasonable prices.

The Venue
Bertorelli on Floral Street is part of a well established chain of modern Italian restaurants. Minutes from Covent Garden tube but tucked out of the way of the tourist hordes, it occupies a prime location and is ideal for pre-theatre or opera dining. The restaurant is located on the ground floor with a more relaxed cafe bar downstairs. Simply decorated with cream walls, carpets and soft lighting, it has a cosy feel despite it's size.

The Atmosphere
On a busy night Bertorelli has the capacity to pack the diners in but on a weeknight once the theatre crowd has dispersed, trade slows down to a steady trickle. Soft classical music creates a romantic ambiance although the starched white tablecloths feel a little too formal. The service is very friendly but during your meal you can be attended to by any of a number of waiters which can feel a little impersonal. As the night wears on service can also be a little on the slow side.

The Food
Bertorelli's has an extensive a la carte menu. Pasta dishes include traditional fare such as ravioli or risotto but if you are looking for something more unusual the duck cannelloni might be a tempting option. Pasta aside, the meat dishes range through steak, chicken, veal and even rabbit and there is a good selection of fish available too. The set menu offers excellent value at under £20 a head for three courses, although the choices are much more limited and the courses could benefit from some more interesting accompaniments.

The mussels are a good option, plump and cooked to perfection with a tasty tomato sauce. The artichoke soup, on the other hand, is less interesting than it sounds, lacking any distinctive flavour. The cod comes with a sizable portion of mashed potato and a pesto dressing, but not a vegetable in sight. Desserts were much more satisfying, a large wedge of lemon tart with just the right amount of zing and a classic tiramisu.

The Drink
There is a good selection of reasonably priced Italian wine and several are available by the glass. If you can afford to then steer clear of the house white, which has a slightly unpleasant aftertaste.

The Last Word
On the plus side, Bertorelli offers convenience, consistency and affordability. However, with so many dining options in and around the Covent Garden area there is little to single this venue out from the crowd.
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