The Zetter has always been one of the capital’s well known boutique hotel destinations but thanks to the arrival of chef Bruno Loubet, their restaurant has raised its game.

The Venue
After a several-year-sojourn in Australia, Bruno Loubet has returned to London, the city where he made his name with restaurants Bistrot Bruno and L’Odeon, which he opened in the mid-90s. For his comeback spot he’s chosen the Zetter, a boutique hotel in Clerkenwell. Whilst Bistrot Bruno Loubet has its own entrance, it’s worth arriving through the hotel entrance if only for the futuristic automatic doors and spiral staircase that leads up to the restaurant.

The layout of the restaurant is unusual, with an almost circular shape that seems to follow the curving stairs. Towards the front is a small lounge area and beyond that is the dining area, which has a welcoming, homey feel thanks to wooden floors, painted brick walls and a custom-made divider that resembles the desk of a mad scientist, with drawers in the wrong places and desk lamps peering every which way. Touches of purple, including pretty glass tumblers, add a sophisticated bit of colour.

The Atmosphere
The somewhat cluttered restaurant makes for a comforting ambiance, almost like eating in someone’s home, albeit a professionally decorated one. Despite being in a hotel, at Bistrot Bruno Loubet there’s no sign of the desolate atmosphere that seems to go hand in hand with many hotel restaurants – no single diners with no laptops, just couples and small groups of friends enjoying their food. Service is fast and staff are sweet – they do a nice job navigating the slightly-too-close-together tables in order to make sure they’re always serving you from the right.

The Food
The menu is a good size, not too short and not too long, and prices are similar to the restaurant’s previous incarnation so there won’t be any surprises there for the regulars. What is a surprise, though, is the bread, which is baked, and served, a flowerpot. Cut down the centre, one loaf is perfect for two - and it makes a great idea to borrow for a dinner party.

A starter of pressed seared tuna and lardo di Colonnata (essentially cured pig’s lard, which sounds much worse than it tastes) costs £8.50 and is worth every penny. Pressed into a terrine-like shape, cubes of seared tuna are bordered with thin layers of the lardo di Colonnata, which adds texture and richness without taking away from the flavour of the fish. A green apple puree decorating the plate is sweet and bright, balanced out by a little tower of mayonnaise-y coleslaw and matchstick slices of green apple. Potted shrimps and mackerel (£7.50) is well flavoured, with a rich fishiness that’s not too overwhelming. It’s served in a little Kilner jar and accompanied by some thin slices of Melba toast and a vinegary red onion, dill and cucumber salad.

If you’re a fan of game, be sure to order the hare royale (£18) if it’s on the menu. Surrounded by a ring of pumpkin puree and topped with an onion raviolo, chunks of hare meat are pressed into a mound and are much more tender than you’d expect, with a strong irony taste like it’s been mixed with liver. Despite being delicious it’s hard to finish as it's an incredibly filling, indulgent dish and almost sinfully rich. The vegetable and goat cheese Pithivier (£14), however, is slightly disappointing. The pie, topped with a swirling pastry crust, is full of winter vegetables and whilst the goat’s cheese is nice and tangy the vegetables taste a bit too sharp. It’s very large, which, whilst value for money, gets a bit samey after a while. Side orders, including Romanesco broccoli with mange tout (£3.50) and a mixed leaf salad (£4) with a strangely lemony, bitter dressing, are necessary only if you are absolutely starving as the main portions are more than large enough.

Puddings end things on a high note with a fresh, creamy lemon creme brulee (£5.50) topped with a torched-just-enough crackling and accompanied by a scoop of refreshing jasmine tea sorbet. The warm, flaky brioche (£6) is topped with chunks of rhubarb and creme fraiche, making it a good choice if you don’t like your desserts too sugary.

The Drink
The Zetter’s bar has a massive cocktail list which is well worth a look, but in terms of wine Bistrot Bruno Loubet offers up a long list, with choices ranging from £15.50 to £108 a bottle, with the majority affordable or moderately priced. More than a dozen are available by the glass, carafe and half carafe, ranging from £3.85 to £9.50. For whites, the French Picpoul de Pinet (£6 a glass) is a delicate, drier choice whilst the Australian White Mullet (£5.50) is heavy and sweet, with a light liquorice taste.

The Last Word
Bruno Loubet makes a welcome return to London with his eponymous restaurant, which offers friendly service, warm decor and an interesting menu that’s, for the most part, pretty faultless. Here’s hoping he’ll stick around.

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