134 Fortess Road,
London,
NW5 2HP
(020) 7267 8672
The ViewLondon Review
If you feel like eating out but are reluctant to make a detour after work, this authentic Thai is the best choice in Tufnell Park.
The Venue
Minutes from the tube, between estate agents and daytime cafes and shops, the competition here isn’t too threatening, with only a handful of eateries in the area. The light blue facade and Blue Moon sign promises Thai takeaway but doesn’t necessarily tempt a passerby to stop before Sainsbury’s for a sit-down meal. Luckily it’s the charm behind the door which keeps this a secret neighbourhood favourite.
The Atmosphere
Intimate enough for a meal for two, relaxed enough for a quick one-course re-fuel and special enough for a group get together; there’s a steady stream of regulars. The handful of staff welcome all with familiarity, whether you’re popping in to pick up a delivery or settling down for a session. Their attentive skill - swift service, topping up glasses and replacing burnt out candles - makes the small setting inclusive rather than intrusive.
The Food
Not an extravagant or expensive menu, but the classics are covered with spring rolls, crispy duck and dim sum all featuring as starters. The Thai fishcakes might surprise if you’re used to fat, fish filled varieties, instead prepare for a plate of traditional, chewy patties with chopped green chilli and sweet peanut-topped dipping sauce.
Main course options are plentiful, if anything an extensive reminder that this doubles as a takeaway for all. The house specialties stand out. Steamed fish flakes easily into a tart lime and chilli sauce, a fresh balance of delicate sweetness and bite, worth overlooking the superfluous salad garnish and fish-shaped dish for. The creaminess of the green curry does nothing to quell its heat, satisfyingly hot and absorbed by aubergine, chicken and bamboo shoots. The accompanying bowl of sticky rice is essential and just enough to soak it up.
Desserts are dominated by a banana theme, with Banana Delight and Banana Aroma giving nothing away apart from their key component. Coconut ice cream takes the edge off a curry after-burn, natural tasting simplicity spoilt only by the squirty cream it’s served with. The set menu for four is a valuable deal at £16 each, including a mixed starter, duck, six main dishes and a free bottle of house wine.
The Drink
A fine selection. Dry white wine won’t interfere with the flavour packed dishes, or a bottle of Singha beer is a good alternative. An impressive liqueur list makes it preferable to skip the banana surprise for a sweet amaretto, or round off the meal with herbal tea brewed in an authentic wooden handled tea pot.
The Last Word
Traditional art, candle-lit tables and Thai beer combine to transport you from Tufnell Park to Thailand, worth traveling for to make it your local.
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