The regions of Italy have inspired huge variations in the national diet; a result of the influences from numerous bordering countries while other regions are surrounded by sea, a range of terrains and the climate, which becomes warmer as one heads South. The joy of Bocca Di Lupo is that chef Jacob Kennedy travelled all over Italy and designed his impressive menu to include meat dishes more associated with the north and seafood dishes more typical of the south.

The Venue
Situated in the heart of Soho the restaurant’s full length window gives Archer Street a welcome blast of light from amongst the dark buildings on a winter’s night. On entering, the huge room is loud and busy: there are diners occupying all the seats around the big marble bar, behind which chefs can be seen cooking and waiters preparing drinks orders. At the back is a big seated dining area lit by a dramatic chandelier with paintings of all the main food groups on the wall.

The Atmosphere
It is not an exaggeration to say that the restaurant is heaving; so much so that arriving slightly early means standing while waiting for a table. Demand is high and there is a lively, good natured buzz.

The Food
As well as the variety of regional Italian food, Bocca di Lupo’s menu is also distinctive because dishes can be ordered as small or large portions, enabling diners to eat tapas-style and so have room for more. From the raw and cured (crudi e salumi) section of the menu the lamb proscuitto with pecorino from Sardinia (£9) is delicious and melts in the mouth, as does the raw sea bream with scallop and rosemary oil from Veneto (£9.50). From the fried (fritti) menu there are five fried dishes from Rome, most notable amongst these is the excellent crispy Artichoke a la Giudia (£5).

From the street food menu the Sicilian foccacia with lung and spleen simmered in lard and smoked ricotta may not appeal to everyone but the offal has a comforting texture complemented by the warm smoked cheese sandwiched between beautiful handmade, oily bread. Another highlight is the black risotto with cuttlefish and its ink. It’s worth ordering a large portion of this, it has a mouth watering intensity of flavour and there is a huge sense of disappointment as the final grain of rice is eaten. From the dessert menu the Neapolitan rum baba with pineapple and whipped cream (£5.50) is satisfyingly soaked in alcohol and rounds off the meal perfectly.

The Drink
There are wines from all over Italy available by the glass, starting with a Pinot Grigio or Merlot at about £3 or a 500 ml carafe at £11.00. Otherwise wines by the bottle are from France or Italy across a range of prices as high as over £1,000. There is also a cocktail menu and Italian beers are on offer as well.

The Last Word
The food at Bocca Di Lupo is undoubtedly excellent though a couple of quirks of Italian regional cooking may seem unusual. The waiting staff are helpful and good humoured, but the fact that they have to deal with so many diners means the strict two hour table policy, which is not always long enough for dinner with friends, makes the experience less welcoming and more businesslike.

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