151-153 Commercial Street,
Shoreditch,
London,
E1 6BJ
(020) 7377 8418
The ViewLondon Review
The Mexican invasion of London continues with boho mexica on Commercial Street.
The Venue
Located on the former site of a Chinese restaurant, boho mexica is a small, colourful venue. To the right of the entranceway is a lounge area, with low coffee tables and sofas, whilst to the left is the restaurant, kitted out in retro furniture and an occasional plush red velvet seat. Staff bustle around the large bar in the centre which connects the two areas.
The decor is warm and eclectic, with a nod to Mexican culture in the old newspaper and magazine cut-outs that paper the column and counter by the bar. Colourful Spanish words and phrases are painted on the ceiling along with cartoons whilst old posters decorate the walls. Towards the back is a pretty, sepia-toned mural that sees London landmarks like Big Ben rubbing shoulders with Mexico City’s Metropolitan Cathedral and the winged statue-topped column of El Angel de la Independencia, whilst a portrait of the Madonna looks down benevolently on the smiling face of the Queen.
The Atmosphere
Although it’s just a few minutes’ walk from Brick Lane it’s quite possible that boho mexica’s slightly awkward location towards the top end of Commercial Street will mean that passers-by simply don’t pass by. With its small size though you can imagine it being an atmospheric, intimate place to fill your stomach before a night of drinking and the lack of typical Mexican decorations (sombreros, inflatable beer bottles) means that it shouldn’t attract too laddish a crowd. Staff are friendly although are still finding their feet, and the dishes arrive as and when they’re ready, despite one section of the menu being clearly labelled as appetisers.
The Food
Those who confuse Mexican food with its Tex-Mex offspring will be in for a surprise at boho mexica. No fajitas, burritos or the like are in sight, just traditional dishes like enchilada de mole (a sauce made with dark chocolate and chillies) and the Mayan-influenced braised pork with pickled onions. Prices are refreshingly cheap with the most expensive dish under £7, although portion size reflects this and you’ll probably need to order more than one dish if you’re hungry.
From the list of starters, Caldo Tlalpeno (£3.95) is a traditional Mexican soup made with chicken, chipotle and chickpeas. boho mexica’s version is nicely smokey, with pieces of chicken shredded incredibly thinly and scattered across the top of the soup. Strips of crunchy tortillas make a nice complement to the smooth, velvety chickpeas, though the small slice of avocado on the side seems a little lacklustre. From a selection of three tortas (Mexican sandwiches), the De Conchita is disappointing. Small even for its £4.35 price tag, although the bread is appropriately crusty the pork is so salty that it completely overwhelms the pickled onions spread on top. A single slice of avocado seems like an afterthought and is also overpowered by the salty flavour. A half a dozen tapas selections (rump steak strips, pork tenderloin, sea bass) and a trio of tacos with several different options of fillings complete the list.
A trio of desserts includes stuffed plantain with melted cheese, corn on the cob with chilli, mayo, lime and cheese (a popular Mexican street food), and Bunuelos de Navidad. The latter is £3.50 and is a dish of fried dough fritters drizzled in syrup – steaming hot, light and sugary.
The Drink
At the moment there’s no printed drinks menu at boho mexica, which could be slightly confusing if you’re trying to decide what to order. Mexican beer is a safe bet, with bottles of Corona and Sol at £3 each. Basic cocktails can be made to order courtesy of the dozen bottles or so of alcohol behind the bar; Margaritas and Mojitos are popular choices and cost £5.95 each.
Non-alcoholic drinks are £2 and include Horchata, a milky drink flavoured with cinnamon, Jamaica, a sweet, refreshing drink made with hibiscus flowers, and Tamarindo, made with tamarind. Tap water is served in a large glass with a slice of lemon.
The Last Word
If your idea of Mexican food is fajitas and tortilla chips and salsa, boho mexica is an inexpensive way to get an introduction to the cuisine.
boho mexica has been reviewed by 21 users