As the capital continues to tweet itself into a right tizzy over food trucks and no-reservation dinner tables, old-school restaurants like Bombay Brasserie, with its palatial surroundings, deferential service and fancy ways, may appear positively prehistoric. But don’t let current trends put you off: the Indian food here is sublime, and they’ll even let you order off menu should you hanker after a good ol’ lamb biriyani or ras malai.

The Venue
Currently celebrating its thirtieth year of business, Bombay Brasserie is seconds away from Gloucester Road tube, and offers a high-end dining experience, one akin to going to Claridge’s or any number of fine dining restaurants, but with Indian food replacing the classic French fare you usually find in these sort of places.

Inside you’ll find an expansive bar as the first port of call, with an onyx backlit bar manned by smartly dressed staff who mix up a range of cocktails and pour glasses of bubbly for dressed-to-the-nines Italian ladies, moneyed guys and couples. Entering into the restaurant itself transports you into cavernous period room decked out with glittering chandelier features, oversized stripy booths, huge golden gilt mirrors and a gallery of black and white photos and pieces of colourful art depicting life in India dating back to the days of the Raj. Adjacent to this is an airy conservatory which provides lots more covers but the best seats are in the main dining room.

The Atmosphere
If you’re not a fan of clattery dining room and being wedged in like sardines with your fellow diner, this will be your sort of place. There’s acres of room in between the tables; you could almost do laps around the place. Service is formal but you won’t feel at all uncomfortable. Noticeably some staff members are a bit older than most restaurants, which in this case is a very good thing as they’re absolutely pros at what they do.

The Food
Fancy cutlery, posh plates and starchy tablecloths are all in evidence here – but the food is anything but stuffy or dull. Starters include pan-fried tilapia (£9.50), a succulent serving of white fish that’s got a fiery massala coating, one so intensely hot that it will produce beads of sweat on the brow, even if you’re used to spicy food. Another starter with a bit of a kick is the seekh kebab (£10.50), which sees the well-seasoned minced meat riff against the constant hum of chilli heat.

Mains are first-class. You actually need to work your way to the back of the menu to find the chicken biriyani (£18), the only biriyani listed. This is where the restaurant – and the waiter – earns its stripes though, as a lamb biriyani (even though it’s not on the menu) is offered. When it arrives, it’s a perfect rendition of the dish, with a lingering meaty flavour from the lamb working beautifully with the intricate cocktail of spices and the golden rice. Another excellent choice is the dum ki nalli, a huge shank of lamb with a generous amount of meat, served on a saffron-infused viscous sauce. The meat is wonderfully tender and it combines delightfully with the piquant sauce and some plain basmati rice.

Desserts in Indian restaurants rarely excel. Bombay Brasserie attempts to remedy this with a selection of classic puddings with an Indian edge. Think: masala tea brulee. Again, top marks must be given for their ability to improvise: ask if they do the classic ras malai dessert, a sweet mix of milk, paneer dumplings and cardamom, and they’ll be able to produce one for you.

The Drink
There’s a very respectable wine list, including old and new world tipples plus plenty of champagne. While you could easily bump your bill skywards, a couple of the more affordable options include a bottle of prosecco (£30) and a bottle of the ripe and luscious Fat Bastard Pinot Noir (also £30).

The Last Word
Food trends are a fickle thing. One minute something's the next big thing, the next it’s been co-opted by a high street chain and done to death. You can tell that Bombay Brasserie has never been one to bother itself with what’s in vogue, and it’s all the better for it. After all, class is permanent.

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