With the capital’s queen of culinary criticism acting as one of the consultants, this swish new restaurant in Fenwick on Bond Street should get it right. Thankfully, it does.

The Venue
As part of Fenwick’s three year redevelopment and expansion, Bond and Brook benefits from some of the scene’s big hitters, including caterers ‘rhubarb’, aforementioned critic Fay Maschler and designers Made Thought. The result is a restaurant that is perfectly suited to the types of folk you’d expect to see in Fenwick, namely well-to-do ladies of a more mature vintage topping up their wardrobes with off-the-peg pastel numbers. The entrance is so spacious and inviting that you could be forgiven for inadvertently perusing your way along a rail to find yourself handily seated inside, where you’d be met with an immaculate mix of creams, greys and olives that make the place feel pristine, yet not clinical. A sweeping chrome service area acts as an arresting centrepiece, whilst oversized bottles of Chanel generate a bit of glamour, glowing in gold next to hardback collections of Baileys, Fords and Walkers.

The Atmosphere
Everything at Bond and Brook seems geared for their core clientele, namely those ladies that are shopping on the adjacent floor and looking to lunch. You can imagine them enjoying the handsome waiters’ exotic accents and good looks every bit as much as their food, whilst the whole place has that relaxed feel that is perfect for unhurried catch ups and purely restorative bottle finishing. If, however, you don’t happen to be a lady wot lunches, you’ll be in equally good company – it gets busy enough to see couples, businessmen, lone diners and even the odd wealthy eccentric in a bowler hat and short shorts.

The Food
Enabling diners the opportunity to play around a little with what they order, Bond and Brook offers tapas-sized dishes on the ‘collection’ as well as more traditional larger plates, accompanied by ‘accessories’, or sides, to most people. Despite these naff monikers, the food is very tasty, served in perfectly judged portions that come to the table showing obvious precision and care in the kitchen. The carpaccio (£6) is particularly good - a neatly arranged combination of excellent beef served with crostini, truffle dressing, rocket and slivers of parmesan. The tuna and ceviche with tortilla (£6) is also pretty good, with cubes of tuna, avocado and red onion benefitting from being very light, and not too sharp or acidic. The accompanying tortilla chips are more like crackers (very bready), but they have a sweetness that works well with the tuna.

The larger dishes continue the impressive work coming from the kitchen, with a deliciously plump and fresh bit of sole (£22) taken back in time and given a classic Veronique makeover. The double cream and white wine give the broth depth, but it’s light enough to go with the fish as it should, with warm white grapes giving a very tasty bit of sweetness. The Bond and Brook salad (£14) is a little less extravagant, but it’s a good combination of flavours, with a creamy ranch dressing and avocado aided by the sharpness of some fresh red grapefruit.

Desserts are really good, with lavender poached berries (£6.50) being particularly tasty. Fresh blueberries, raspberries and strawberries are very lightly poached before they’re dressed in a pink Champagne granita that melts appealingly into the martini serving glass. The chocolate ice cream (£6.50) is also impressive, with rich and smooth ice cream drizzled in a salted caramel sauce that has the perfect consistency.

The Drink
Again suited perfectly to the clientele Bond and Brook is looking to attract, it has a good selection of wines available both by the glass and by the bottle, going from a good Vermentino at £21.50 for the bottle up to a slightly more expensive, yet perfectly good value Chablis at £35. Those looking to enjoy something a little more exotic can get some well-made martinis, margaritas and pink mules at £8 a pop, or £10.50 for what looks like a very good Kir Royale.

The Last Word
A great place for those already shopping, Bond and Brook shouldn’t have much trouble attracting those from further afield too. Fenwick and Fay will be happy.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (1) image gallery (4)