So, what happens to Shoreditch’s DJs and designers when they tire of snorting tequila till dawn at dingy East London bars and start craving gourmet cuisine, stimulating conversation and comfortable surroundings on a night out? Until recently, the only option would have been to say sayonara to Shoreditch and make the move to Mayfair. However, thanks to Boundary, that all looks set to change.

The Venue
Located directly behind Shoreditch House, just off Shoreditch High Street, Boundary is keeping good company. A joint venture between Terence and Vicki Conran in partnership with Peter Prescott, the vast Victorian warehouse has been carefully restored and improved so much that its former use as a printing works seems another, far less aspirational lifetime ago.

From the reception area, the concierge gives you the option of heading down to the restaurant via the stone stairs or if you don’t fancy the walk, you can take the lift that'll zip you down to the restaurant at lightening quick speed and in a few months will also be the easiest way to make your way to the rooftop for after dinner cigars or, if you're staying over, your hotel room. Most diners opt for a pre-dinner cocktail in the bar adjoining the restaurant which (whilst so small that you’ll struggle to find a seat that’s not at the bar if there are more than a few small groups enjoying a drink) includes the all-important namesake boundary stone that denotes the boundary where London County Council’s land formerly joined Jeremiah Rotherham and Sons’.

As for the restaurant itself, it's a brave departure from the blandly tasteful furnishings that even the most sensitively restored restaurants all-too-often resort to and it’s surprisingly romantic without being cloyingly so. Along the far right hand side of the room, the theatre of the kitchen plays out behind a vast glass wall whilst on the opposite one, curved banquettes are generously sized with some set against the deep exposed brick supports of the building for extra privacy. Larger groups tend to sit in the middle of the room, closer to the kitchen and all of the action but wherever you sit in the restaurant the minute attention to detail is evident – from the artfully careless, blowsy flower arrangements and the delicately worked, mismatched Art Deco chairs upholstered in plush burgundy or navy fabric and finished with thin cream piping to the old silver trays displayed on the exposed brick walls.

Boundary is in the basement but as a former printing works it's not as dark as many. That said, what the restaurant lacks in natural light, it more than makes up for in ceiling height. The ceiling (and by extension the pavement) towers so far above the tables that you’ll really have to tip your head back and concentrate to even make it out. Far from being cavernous however, it's actually surprisingly cosy thanks to homely features such as a bookcase with bottles lining the shelves dividing the space between the bar and restaurant (chances are you have something similar at home from Habitat) and a parchment scroll that starts at the bookcase and hangs suspended at normal ceiling height that's etched with constellations and twinkling lights.

The Atmosphere
Boundary is one of those rare London restaurants where you immediately feel so at home that you could have been going there for years. Larger groups are upbeat and include such esteemed luminaries as Terence and Jasper Conran out for a relaxed dinner with other family members but it's not all about big groups celebrating an occasion, far from it. Dotted around the room there are lots of couples too who manage to combine gazing up at each other from beneath heavy eyelashes with catching up after a long day.

The Food
When it comes to the food, the oysters are a popular choice to start (pick from English rock oysters at £1.20 each, English native oysters and French oysters both priced at £2.50 each, half a dozen Rockefeller oysters for £9 or go all-out with six native oysters and spicy sausages for an eye-watering £16). As you’d expect, the foie gras terrine is expensive at £14 but the generous slab is buttery smooth and served with two lightly toasted pieces of bread that are reminiscent of brioche although not quite as sweet and not nearly as heavy. At £6, the moules a la mariniere are also highly recommended. The seemingly never-ending bowl is piled with scrupulously cleaned mussels, in fact there are so many of them that replacing the small bowl that’s left for you to place the shells in is enough to keep one waiter busy and you entertained throughout your starter – eat quickly and see if they can make it back from the kitchen with another bowl before you’ve filled the replacement. The beautifully seasoned, cream sauce that the mussels are swimming in is great for dunking too and helps with the complimentary French baguette that on its own is otherwise slightly too chewy.

In keeping with its easy-going atmosphere, there's a rotating choice of roasts and comfort food on offer that are accompanied by potatoes and other vegetables. On Mondays for example, you can order pork belly at £13.50 whilst on Saturdays it's the turn of Beef Wellington (£19). Free range roast chicken is also available every day although at £16.50 for half and £30 for a whole roast chicken you’d hope that it had been hand-fed by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall with grain coated in gold leaf and perhaps read a bedtime story.

When it comes to main courses it's well worth ordering the Dover Sole (£24) which covers the entire plate and comes accompanied by potatoes although they’re more than happy to substitute them with an alternative side from the menu if you prefer. The vinegary red cabbage, sticky honey parsnips that arrive glossy with butter and spinach (£3) are all ideal to accompany it. The lightly pan fried fish is appealingly golden on the outside, not at all greasy and so beautifully cooked that you need only gently graze your knife (engraved with the restaurant’s name) across the surface to separate it from the skeleton. The venison chops (£16.50) served with poached pear and juniper sauce are just as good and unlike some cuts of venison, the meat whilst rich doesn’t taste even slightly of liver – good news if you’re not a fan of offal.

Unfortunately, the staff whilst highly efficient at tending to your every whim currently flounder when it comes to the provenance of the ingredients. The venison is simply superb but when questioned the staff struggle to name what type of deer it hails from, puzzled expressions on the chefs' faces can clearly be seen through the glass of the open kitchen and the answer when it comes still isn’t accurate although they can manage to narrow it down to the age and estate the venison is from, just not the type of deer – the words red and fallow fall on increasingly confused ears. This may seem a small quibble but in these belt tightening times and at these prices you expect that if you want to know the type of deer that you’re eating that you can. Immediately and with great certainty. Hell, you’re entitled to know its first name, if it wore nail varnish, how it voted in the last election and whether it was lifelong friends with Bambi.

As for the desserts, there are plenty of French classics on the menu including creme brulee (£5) and several cheese options. The creme brulee passes the all-important tap-with-a-spoon test when it comes to the caramelised sugar topping that cracks satisfyingly to reveal a light, creamy dessert with a delicate vanilla flavour that adds depth and interest without being overpowering. As for the cheeses, they’re served in front of you in the traditional French fashion and you dictate the portion size. The Vacherin Mont d’Or (£8) is delicious and so ripe that it’s practically spooned out in front of you but be warned, it smells like a Frenchman’s socks, after a hard day’s work on a tractor, in the rain, wearing wellies. If you’re not a fan of strong cheese it may be worth sticking to the Stichelton whose strong taste is countered with a serving of fruitcake (£8).

The Drink
With over 500 wines on the list, Boundary is probably not the restaurant for you if you’re not a fan of fine vin. However, don’t think that their dedication to wine means that their wine list is prohibitively expensive – there are plenty of good bottles available for under £35. If you want to make the most of the menu though, it’s worth ordering by the glass. For fish, a solid choice of white is the French Chablis (£7) whilst for heavy red meat (of which there is plenty on the menu including steak and game) a spicy red wine is best - the Chateau Labaclie fits the bill beautifully at £6.75. If you’ve more money to spend, there’s an extensive Champagne list that really showcases the sommelier’s finesse and plenty of superior vintage bottles of wine to keep you entertained for many a mellow hour.

The Last Word
Shoreditch is an area that can sometimes feel like it’s seen it all. Its residents are so exposed to trends that it’s often hard to impress them but Boundary is likely to succeed where so many have fallen by the wayside. The food, wine and design are faultless and, although the staff could do with a little more training about the ingredients and a few of the more expensive dishes on the menu could do with coming down a few pounds, overall Boundary deserves to become a regular haunt for discerning foodies and the area’s most famous faces.

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