Don’t let the name confuse you, Brasserie Roux is more upmarket restaurant than laid back French brasserie, with top quality French food served up in an attractive setting.

The Venue
Brasserie Roux is located on the ground floor of the Sofitel St James, a beautiful, traditional white building on a quiet, leafy street close to Haymarket. Located behind glass doors proclaiming Brasserie Roux in large letters, the dining area does not disappoint. Large and airy, it manages to be spacious without becoming impersonal, based as it is in the former banking hall of Cox and Kings Bank. High ceilings and a lighter decor than the neighbouring St James Bar makes for a relaxing and non-intimidating area to dine in comfort. Yellow walls help to make the hall look airy and red and green leather seating keeps a contemporary edge to proceedings. All in all, it leaves a good impression, ready for what’s to come.

The Atmosphere
As with many Central London’s hotels, weekends aren’t the best time to visit this restaurant if it’s a lively atmosphere you’re after. However, if you want a decent meal in relaxed surroundings then this is just the ticket, the staff helping to keep things upbeat and friendly. The service is excellent, although the general waiting staff could do with being more impassioned and familiar with the menu. You won’t have to wait for long to have your drinks topped up or be left wanting for anything. All in all, you’ll leave satisfied.

The Food
Being inspired by renowned chef Albert Roux (of top restaurant Le Gavroche) stands Brasserie Roux in excellent stead, evident in the quality menu and delicious food. And, best of all, it won’t break the bank. With a range of well-priced menus, including a weekly set menu for £24.50, a pre theatre menu for £20.00 for three courses and 2 glasses of wine, as well as a decent a la carte, this is a good place to come to experience fine dining if you don’t want to spend a small fortune.

If you’re ordering from the a la carte then you have a fine selection of starters to choose from, from the usual such as foie gras and scallops to the more unique. The scrambled eggs with cepes and crispy pancetta may sound like an upmarket breakfast but it’s actually a fine start to your meal. The eggs are light, fluffy and full of flavour and the pancetta is a nice twist on the usual bacon – with a strong, distinctive meaty taste. The mushrooms round it off nicely, countering the salty pancetta with its earthy tones. Highly recommended, however, is the quenelle of pike ‘a la Lyonnaise’ – this is, without a doubt, the highlight of the starters. A rich, creamy dish that literally explodes in your mouth while leaving a smooth aftertaste. It’s nothing short of divine and an absolute must.

Mains are equally delicious. Be sure to try the meats, which all come in nice slabs, well presented and are juicy and tender – getting the mouth watering before the first bite. Especially recommended is the veal – an excellent cut of meat, cooked perfectly to order and accompanied with chestnuts and meat jus. Simply incredible. However, top of the billing has to be the duck – thick, pink slices appear on the plate with all the taste of the juices without that fattiness often associated with the bird. Coming with potatoes, vegetables and a selection of sauces, it can’t be faulted.

If you have the room after all that food, then go for one of their desserts. The floating islands with almond pralines is a delicate dish that is just the right side of being creamy and sweet – satisfying both those with a sweet tooth and those who prefer lighter desserts. The apple crumble is also delightful, if slightly gloopy. But the fruit flavours are cut through nicely by the creamy ice cream.

The Drink
Perhaps unsurprisingly for a restaurant like Brasserie Roux, the wine list is substantial. Prices range from the lower end at £20 a bottle, right up to several hundred pounds a pop, so whatever you like to quaff you’ll be well looked after. The menu is easy to follow and well laid out, with wines divided up by regions and areas. Recommended, though, is you follow the advice of the well-versed, passionate and friendly sommelier. Excellent in his role, he’ll be only too happy to recommend different glasses for each course, allowing you to sample the wine menu as a whole and to hear stories and details about every glass. Do be sure to try the Champagne – Pommery Winter is highly recommended, changing each season and offering a high quality drink with none of the bitter aftertaste of some champers.

The Last Word
Brasserie Roux is a decent hotel restaurant that is remarkably well priced considering the quality of the food and aura of the hotel. A star find.

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