Brazas has been labeled as everything from Portuguese to Argentinean cuisine since opening three years ago. Management has gone for a less specific classification, appealing more to the masses and calling it modern European. And yet it’s still difficult to pin this family run restaurant down.

The Venue
Brazas is awkwardly placed between Tulse Hill and Brixton train stations and whilst locals won’t be fazed by its boisterous, bustling surroundings, newcomers might be unnerved by the estates and ominous silences that constitute the walk from Tulse Hill train station. Brixton’s definitely a better bet – swimming in sound, style and surreal activity.

Brazas is a modest establishment to say the least. It’s always pleasant to pass an open grill and a delicatessen on the way to your table and by installing these elements by the entrance, Brazas ensures you get a sense of the freshly prepared home cooking on offer. The dining area is comprised of 10 tables and caters for about 30 covers on a busy night. They’ve clearly gone for minimalism and aside from a large wooden mirror and an exuberant painting it’s pretty much what you’d expect from a cafe in the Mediterranean - small, simple and square. It’s humble and homely but a lick of paint and a dash of colour wouldn’t go amiss.

The Atmosphere
In contrast to the Brixton bustle, there’s a rather static, stolid atmosphere in Brazas. The faint purr of Latin music and dimmed lights add an air of authenticity to the restaurant and with the heat protruding from the open grill you could be temporarily suspended in the belief that you’re in a cafe in the Costa Del Sol. Staff straddle this simmering, sub-European ambience with relative ease though they’re often reticent to the point of near neglect.

The Food
It’s become progressively refreshing to see small, streamlined menus nowadays. Of the six starters on offer at Brazas, chargrilled chorizo (£4.50) is a little more engaging than it sounds. The meat is cut into aesthetically pleasing jagged twirls, served with a chunk of toasted ciabatta and laced with black honey syrup that adds a surprisingly pleasant component. The sticky sweetness of the syrup is a perfect foil for the tart, acidic aftertaste that accompanies the chorizo. It proves to be the dish of the day. Portuguese cod cakes (£3.95) offer less flamboyant flavour combinations but are pleasing nonetheless. Three oblong balls are filled with a cod-like mousse that’s soft and mushy and melts in your mouth. It’s served with a homemade sweet chilli sauce that sneaks up on you and sparks the palate into action.

Mains are moderately pleasant but err towards caution in terms of concept and creativity. That said, the piri piri chicken (£8.50 for one half) is a step above any icky alternative in a cheap chicken shop. The depth of flavour – an escalating thwack of piri piri spice appeased by a sweet salsa – suggests that it’s hearty, home-cooked grub and nothing like the mass-produced menu at Nandos. And the Brazas burger – a pure ground beef mix, served in toasted ciabatta with salsa, salad and your choice of bacon, cheddar cheese or a fried egg – is a snip at £7.95. For most, eating it is like trying to slay Goliath but those with big appetites are likely to benefit. It’s tinged with a cleansing trail of coriander, seasoned superbly and should you go for the egg as an extra option you’ll be cheered by its robustness. There’s no sign of the kind of stifling, sloppy yolk that has sunk many a decent burger.

Desserts cost £3.45, although occasionally there are special options at £3.80 each. Passion fruit sponge with vanilla ice cream is a nice way to end a meal with warm fruit and cool ice cream working well in tandem. Meringue is always more hit and miss and this offering probably lies somewhere in between. The coarse, sugary coating isn’t for everyone though it’s sweetness is nicely balanced by a sour strawberry sauce and a trickle of black honey syrup on the outskirts of the plate.

The Drink
Despite insisting that they’re not predominantly a Portuguese joint, the country’s wines and beers dominate the drinks list. Super Bock and Sagres are available for £2.85 per bottle whilst the pear juice makes for a soothing antidote to the sizzling, spicy flavours of the food and indeed all fruit juices cost between £2.25 and £1.50. Wines cost £12.50 to £21 per bottle, £3.90 for a small glass and £4.90 for a large glass.

The Last Word
With good food served at decent prices in a thriving metropolitan area, Brazas has a lot going for it.

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