Brew Wharf is – as is aptly suggested by its name – a pub wholly dedicated to the art of beer.

The Venue
Brew Wharf impresses from the moment you spy it, hidden from view behind a large courtyard on the periphery of Borough Market. Stepping through the entryway you’ll glimpse a spacious outdoor area with several benches covered with large parasols. These lie adjacent to the large floor-to-ceiling windows that make up the frontage of this attractive watering hole, allowing you a glimpse of what’s going on inside.

Stepping inwards, you’ll find a large, airy bar with a few wooden tables and chairs level with the main entrance. The rest of the venue resides down a few steps, leading to a large, open-plan space comprising three areas. The first is the main drinking area with further wooden seating and a few simple chairs playing second fiddle to the centrepiece of this room - the bar. Displaying its wares proudly, it gleams in the light that spills in through the windows. The decor is kept simple and extraordinarily high, arched ceilings show off the exposed brickwork of this listed building. With such a naturally impressive space there’s little need to fill it with contrived design features although the tiling on the floor is a nice touch.

To the right is the second area - the dining hall. Again, it is kept simple with basic wooden tables and chairs, although these are modern rather than rustic with a high gloss finish. A storage room sits to the left of the space, containing barrels of beer (of course) and to the right sits an open-plan kitchen with an industrial feel thanks to the large silver ducts rising forth from the centre of the kitchen way up into the high arched ceilings that mirror those of the bar.

The final area is the Brew Hall, another large space with yet more exposed, natural brick where the real action takes place behind glass - the brewing. Brew Wharf produces its own beer in their microbrewery and you can see it taking place in this room, behind a pane of glass. Another benefit to this space is the large projector screen that’s implemented during big sporting events, be it football, rugby or cricket.

The Atmosphere
Brew Wharf should, by rights, be a tourist den. Borough Market nestles against the pub, after all. And, of course, there is a contingent of tourists here, mainly located in the dining area sampling the British cuisine. However, the bar houses a large number of locals and after work drinkers as people pour in from one of the many large offices that fill the area. Although there is quite a large contingent of suits, it doesn’t feel corporate and the atmosphere is definitely relaxed and buzzing rather than unbearably pretentious. People come here for beer, not Cristal.

The staff are friendly and efficient and look after customers – particularly those dining – very well. It’s certainly a friendly place and fits in with the ethos of Borough Market nicely.

The Food
There’s a small but well formed menu at Brew Wharf with a good balance of fish and meat dishes. The prices aren’t particularly cheap but the portions are absolutely huge and you’ll be hard pushed to finish three courses. In fact, you could probably just have a starter and feel pleasantly full, working out at a decent price if you’re looking for some quick grub after pounding the floors of the market.

Starters include a huge bowl of moules mariniere for £6.95. Although this isn’t particularly cheap, it is a great deal when you consider this would be a more than adequate main meal. A pile of glistening mussels in a creamy, rich soup is beautifully presented with a side of salad and a couple of pieces of bread. The bread isn’t particularly good but the mussels come in such a large portion that you’ll be hard pushed to fit bread in anyway. They are, for the most part, well cooked with the plump, very fresh mussels retaining a delicately salty aftertaste. The soup they sit in only serves to complement and heighten their flavour.

Alternatively, you can opt for the Mediterranean vegetable and goat cheese bruschetta (£6.95). Again it is very well presented and comes as a large, filling portion. The slivers of roasted red and yellow peppers and courgettes are delicious and are perfectly cooked so they’re not too soft. The thick slice of cheese covers the top of the vegetables and is slightly melted, producing a gooey, rich and creamy topping with a delightful tang. The bruschetta is crisp and doesn’t go soggy under the weight of the ingredients on top, but again the dish is very heavy and you’ll probably be full after it. No bad thing if you’re trying to save the pennies.

For mains, a popular choice is the Meantime Kolsch battered haddock with chips and tartar sauce for £13.50 - be sure to opt for a side of mushy peas for £3.25. Although not cheap, again the portion is huge and it’s well put together. The haddock is fresh and well cooked and the batter is crisp if slightly on the greasy side. The chips are homemade and look more like chunks of potato. They are, however, surprisingly light. The mushy peas are the perfect accompaniment and are almost creamy in flavour. Considering the size of the portion and the quality of the food, it’s not a bad price.

Alternatively, if you prefer your mains a little meatier, then the rump of lamb with rosemary mash, spinach and lamb jus (£16.25) is an option. Several thick slivers of gorgeously pink lamb sit atop a large portion of creamy mash with a delightful rosemary undertone and a large portion of iron-heavy spinach. Unfortunately, some of the lamb is on the fatty side although it is certainly rich in flavour with a delicate sweetness. However, the lamb jus is too thick, too sweet and ends up being cloying and almost sickly, hiding the delightful flavours of the dish rather than complementing them and making it a very heavy main. That said, if you’re hungry it will certainly do a good job of filling a hole.

If you can fit in a dessert by this point then it’s a real accomplishment as the food is so filling. Highly recommended is the white and dark chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet. Even if you are full, the light flavours are a nice end to your meal. The mousse is rich but the dark chocolate is counteracted by the creaminess of the white chocolate on top. The raspberry sorbet is also very light and has a delicate flavour of raspberries that’s extraordinarily refreshing. An excellent, well balanced dessert for £5.50.

The Drink
Beer, beer and more beer. This is a beer lover’s paradise. The menu has two pages at the front describing the brewing process and recommending matching beer with your food, and it’s little surprise given the fact the menu has over 40 bottled beers. Highlights include a Rochfort 8 with an extraordinary alcohol content of 9.2 per cent and a deliciously sweet strawberry Fruli for £4.75. The cheapest bottle is the Hahn Premium for just £3 and the most expensive is Erdinger Dunkel for £6.65. There are also around ten draught options to choose from, including their own beer brewed on site for £3.40, a couple of Meantime options, Stiegel gold and white, Pilsner Urquell and Budvar to name a few.

If you’re really not a fan of beer then there are two Champagnes and a bottle of Prosecco on the menu as well as a short list of a handful of white, red and rose wines for £17.50-£28.95. Although when in Rome...

The Last Word
Brew Wharf is understandably very proud of its beer selection and the added benefit of their own microbrewery is certainly a big selling point. Just make sure that if you’re dining here your eyes aren’t bigger than your belly – you can eat cheaply if you’re sensible about it. A great watering hole if you’re parched and fancy trying some unusual beers.

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