A bit of a shocker for Canary Wharf – a decent, warm and friendly restaurant and bar that serves good food at reasonable prices.

The Venue
Browns West India Quay is located along the beautiful dockside of Hertsmere Road, which is less a road and more a big meeting place for the post-work crowd of the surrounding high rises. There’s a large outdoor seating area, complete with huge umbrellas and heaters, so smokers and those wishing to enjoy the nice views won’t be too miserable in the winter months, and in the summer these tables are always pumping with diners and drinkers.

Inside, this large venue is divided into two main sections – upstairs is the dining area, with tables of differing sizes able to accommodate anyone from couples to large groups. Downstairs, overlooked by the restaurant, is the equally large bar area where drinkers can go to enjoy a nice or cocktail. The decor of both sections is cosy; akin to a glammed-up pub. Ornate mirrors adourn the walls, but the bars – upstairs and down – are pretty basic and the dining tables are simple. Rather than detracting from the glamour, it just adds to the welcoming, laid-back nature of the place. There are no sterile, cold touches here, instead it offers up some much-needed heart to Canary Wharf. The only slight downside is the toilets aren’t overly pleasant, being akin to an old school loo. However, just don’t ‘break the seal’ and you’ll be fine!

The Atmosphere
As with all Canary Wharf venues, Browns is pumping on weekday lunchtimes and evenings, especially as you near the weekend. However, at weekends the area is a different creature altogether, being much more subdued. The noise and hubbub from the bar below emanates up to the restaurant, and the dining hall is alive with bustle. It’s certainly not a quiet, relaxing place, but that’s not a bad thing. Instead, you can dine and feel you’re out on a fun night out. The clientele is made up almost entirely of office workers, but then Canary Wharfers know how to let their hair down, and on Thursdays and Fridays they really do.

The waiting staff deserve a particular mention. They are all excellent at their jobs, especially considering just how busy the restaurant is. They keep track of every table and offer everyone a smile. And don’t worry if your waiter or waitress doesn’t write down your complicated order, you’ll find that everything arrives on time.

The Food
The food at Browns is superb value for money, especially considering the cost of the surrounding restaurants. Expect good grub in large portions. Starters are a little on hefty side, which isn’t ideal for beginning a big meal, but who cares when the food is so tasty? Especially recommended are the pan fried black pearl scallops with watercress, lentils and lobster sauce – a delicious dish that comes on a huge plate. The scallops are perfectly cooked; not chewy and without the sliminess that often accompanies this difficult to cook delicacy. The lentils are evident, but don’t dominate the dish, instead they add a nice, firm texture to each mouthful. Also recommended are the pan-fried king prawns in a tomato, chilli, garlic and olive oil dressing. The prawns are shelled and plentiful and the chefs avoid the usual pitfalls of this dish - there’s no chewiness, instead they’re cooked to the point where the flavours burst into your mouth. The chilli and tomato dressing works well to add another dimension to the dish – but don’t worry if you’re not a fan of spicy food, the chilli is just enough to add a bit of a tang, but in no way dominates. At £4-£8 a starter, this is excellent value for money.

Mains are equally hefty in size and just as well cooked and delicious. The rack of lamb comes in a decent redcurrant jus with dauphinoise potatoes and broccoli. The lamb, although a little fatty, is succulent and cooked to specification. It goes really well with the juices and the broccoli adds a great crunch. The dauphinoise potatoes are the only slight downside, in that they’re missing a certain creaminess. Go for the French beans as a side and it’ll finish the meal off perfectly – just don’t expect to be able to move afterwards. If, however, you want a guaranteed delicious meal then go for the steak every time. A juicy, thick slab of meat will turn up and it will be cooked perfectly. Absolutely sublime. And with prices averaging at £10-£15, it’s excellent value for money.

You’ll be defied to be able to squeeze in a dessert after all that food – but try and give it a whirl. There’s a great selection on offer – but top of the chart is the sticky toffee pudding. Always a firm favourite, the sponge is light, the sauce sweet and there’s a generous helping of cream. Delicious! And at an average price of just £5, who could resist?

The Drink
Drinks at Browns are among the best priced in Canary Wharf. You can buy a quality bottle of wine in the restaurant for between £10-£30, with a nice Gavi de Gavi on offer for £20 a safe choice.

If wine isn’t your thing, or you just want to go to the bar then there’s a great selection of bottled beers and draught from around the world. At around £3.50 a pint or £3 a bottle these are really good for a night out after a hard day at the office. The Cusquena is crisp and light and the Kasteel Cru, a French beer made with Champagne yeast, is particularly recommended. On the cocktail front there’s a huge selection and gin, vodka, rum and tequila based drinks available at a remarkably low £5-£6. The coconut daiquiri is an especially good twist on the classic, adding a hint of the tropics to the cocktail. The coconut is only just discernible, instead the overall flavour is one of far off beaches and palm trees. The pina colada is also very nice; a classic that is well prepared with a definite alcoholic kick often lacking in this creamy drink.

The Last Word
Although not a place you’d make a special trip for, Browns is an excellent choice for Canary Wharfers or anyone visiting the area. A warm and inviting atmosphere, lacking in many venues of the area, and great food at low prices make this an excellent choice.

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