The biggest of a family of fifteen, Browns Covent Garden displays enough individuality to dilute any fears you may have when it comes to restaurant chains, yet struggles with the demand that its broad appeal invites.

The Venue
Ten years after Westminster County Courts were converted into a 320-seat restaurant, the exterior of Browns still retains the authoritative presence of its predecessor. The bold stone doorway stands between a pair of flame torches, above which a protruding flagpole proudly declares the Browns name to the empty stomachs of Covent Garden.

Inside, the vast dining area is tastefully partitioned by wooden panels that give a nod to the building's previous occupants and reduces the oppressive impact of the hungry crowd. Unfortunately, the traffic seems to have taken its toll. Heavily scuffed paintwork and the odd battered table scream out for a refurb, whilst the menu is a dog-eared and marred by miscellaneous stains, betraying the promise of pristine standards established by the smart exterior.

The Atmosphere
The quaint English charm is alluring enough to attract all manner of tourists, yet not so patronising that it excludes local suits, couples and family groups. Between them, the diverse crowd create a not-quite-annoying buzz of chatter that at least serves to drown out the needlessly high-tempo music. The overall feeling is of a typical West End weekend – relaxed but not quite relaxing, which wouldn't be so bad if only the staff could keep up with the pace.

The Food
The menu features a cosmopolitan mix of dishes, forgoing miniature portions and other such pretentious notions of Modern European cuisine in favour of hearty servings of calorific comfort food, such as you might associate with The Ivy. The main difference being that The Ivy wouldn't dare deliver you a stone cold burger 45 minutes after you ordered. Even less likely is that they'd then return it at a speed and temperature only possible with the use of a microwave and then not only expect you to eat it, but also to pay for it.

The Drink
The wine list is solid, offering affordable quality reds, whites, roses and champagnes. If you're after grain rather than grape, the large bar serves a selection of beers and spirits, as well as a choice of hot beverages to sip whilst you wait for the bill.

The Last Word
A victim of its own popularity, the charming setting and diverse menu draw in more numbers than Browns can maintain standards for. If you're a high-maintenance customer, give it a try at lunchtime or pre-theatre.

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