Brunello

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 2 reviews

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The Baglioni Hotel,
60 Hyde Park Gate,
South Kensington,
London,
SW7 5BB

0871 971 5849
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byCharlotte Greville10/01/2008
A wonderfully decorated, luxurious venue with plenty to offer a variety of customers, Brunello is an indulgent foodie delight.

The Venue
Beautifully decked out in a 21st century Baroque style, the stunning collection of black and gold fabrics, with enormous chandeliers strung from the ceiling and the fully stocked bar glittering with bottles of champagne, Brunello certainly looks the part. Located in the luxury Baglioni hotel, this is no less than you would expect. Comfortable high backed chairs, intimate tables with plenty of distance between them and sumptuous touches of metallics throughout, all create a venue that deserves to be admired and indicates to the casual observer through the window that the clientele inside deserve to be admired also.

The Atmosphere
Despite the grandiose decor Brunello is far from imposing. The more formal restaurant tables are located just yards from lower coffee style tables where groups can easily chat and drink tea (or champagne). The bar is also nearby, meaning that diners can move easily between the two without feeling as though they are crossing boundaries or social barriers between drinking and eating.

The multitude of staff whipping in and out of the tables folding napkins and pouring wine may put off some that are more familiar with the do it yourself attitude, but the quickness of the service and the friendliness of the staff make for a very comfortable atmosphere. With the delightful familial qualities associated with Italy, they are also indulgent of children in what many would assume to be a grown up venue. Little kids with space guns and flashing bunny ears may not be what you would normally expect in this kind of restaurant, but they seem no more out of place than the quietly played contemporary music that simply adds to the cosy yet luxurious atmosphere.

The lunchtime atmosphere at Brunello is one of busy enjoyment. Couples, families and business lunches take place in the relaxed dining room, and the waiting staff are just as attentive to your needs as in the evening. Pleasantly calm, but with the notion of the swan swimming elegantly above the water, whilst its legs paddle madly below, you can tell that there are many hand making the warm and welcoming atmosphere of the lunch service possible.

The Food
Starters like the artichoke and rocket salad with pecorino are crisp, fresh and surprisingly substantial. The peppery taste of the rocket with the crunchy firmness of the artichoke combines in a delicious saltiness that leaves you ready smacking your lips for your next course. The Carpaccio Baglioni is another simple treat that shows off the quality of the ingredients in the best possible way. Delicate, thinly sliced ham is laid out with zingy salad leaves and creamy cheese that tempers the saltiness perfectly.

The grilled tuna with rocket salad and tomatoes is a dish full of flavour and spirit. Deceptively simple, with only three ingredients and seasoning, the crispness of the rocket, the sweetness and softness of the tomato and the meatiness of the tuna steak create a palatable and hearty main. Perfectly seasoned, this dish is substantial enough to satisfy a hungry diner without being overbearing. For something a little more adventurous the duck ravioli is an unusual choice for a pasta dish. Smoky duck in a buttery sauce served up in little al dente triangles, with generous amounts of Parmesan makes for a warming, sweet and salty combination that will win over anyone dubious about the concept of the dish.

If you have room for pudding, then there are plenty of sweet delights to tempt you alongside a full and varied cheese board. The chocolate fondant is a visual treat as well as a mouth watering one. Raspberries, blueberries, strawberries and blackberries sit atop this decadent chocolate tower which is surprisingly not too rich, but wonderfully gooey. For another fruity concoction, the flambeed berries with vanilla ice cream in a biscuit cup mixes the sweet and the tart to great effect. Hot berries with cold ice cream may play hazards with sensitive teeth, but the temperature combinations make for sharply sweet berry sauce and indulgently melted vanilla.

The Drink
A plentiful wine store is available for your scrutiny at Brunello, and there is sure to be something to suit your tastes and wallet. With prices ranging from the very affordable to the distinctly pricey, your wine can be perfectly paired to not only your food but your budget. As always with a venue of this level of grandeur, it is a great idea to get a recommendation from the Maitre D’ or the sommelier. The Puglia Primitivo comes highly recommended for those that need a bottle to match with both meat and/or fish, as it is a light, zesty red that will complement heavier food just as well chicken or seafood.

Cocktails are also to be recommended from the Brunello bar, either before or after dining and the Bellini is a delightfully fresh and fizzy way to start off your evening meal. With plenty of vim and a sweetly citrus tang, this simple cocktail is demonstrative of the fun and rather less formal attitude of the place.

The Last Word
A lavishly decorated venue with delicious, fresh cuisine and an atmosphere of relaxed extravagance, Brunello is the perfect restaurant for a modern take on the fine dining experience. The charm of the staff and the efficiency of the service make for a very enjoyable meal indeed. Whether you are a dining a deux, with family or out for a chic lunch with friends, this is a venue that will indulge and delight.
Brunello has been reviewed by 2 users

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Content updated: 15/02/2012 02:40
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