Who knew that Vauxhall was hiding such a stunning little eatery? Well, the secret’s out now. Shh, don’t tell everyone.

The Venue
Ah Vauxhall. Although much of it is being redeveloped, parts of it are still rather gloomy. And that’s sadly where Brunswick House Cafe finds itself, sat starkly on an unattractive stretch of road. Luckily, the setting itself is beautiful, housed as it is in a Georgian mansion. It also just happens to be owned by famed architectural salvage company Lassco, so you start to get an idea as to what to expect from this place… and it doesn’t disappoint.

The space is divided into a little spot for drinking and a larger one for dining, although there are no set rules about where you can and where you can’t sit and why. And it’s such a decorative assault on the senses you may find it hard to make head-nor-tail of what in the hell is going on anyway. And therein lies its charm; chandeliers, strange metallic objects, random old signs, a rocking horse, granny lamps and modern metallic lamps combine beautifully, but it’s just a shame that the appeal is slightly spoilt by a big soft drinks machine and other modern touches that, for the sake of practicality, have to be included.

The Atmosphere
As kooky as the design is, the clientele of Brunswick House Cafe is a rather strange mix of in-the-know Londoners, quirky arty types and after-workers. The staff are young and fun and seem keen to please, although it’s a shame that an old fashioned butler isn’t around to serve amidst such decor - it really would fit. The mixing of modernity with antiques is a theme that seems to run across all levels of this place. Strange, but not unpleasant.

The Food
Don’t get so lost in the decor that you forget the grub; it is cheap, it is good. The incredibly simple menu spans just one sheet of paper and includes exciting dishes like ox heart, red cabbage and aioli or sprouting broccoli, anchovy and duck egg. And nothing goes above £10, with most dishes priced closer to the £5 mark. If you just want to pick at something then the crispy pig’s skin (£1.80) is a big portion and is quite possibly the best crackling you’ll have ever tasted. Wonderfully crisp and delightfully salty, it certainly gets the mouth watering. If you want something more substantial then the charcuterie of cold Italian meats (£8) like mortadella, prosciutto and finnochiona is big enough to share if you throw in a few olives (£1.80). The meat is incredibly fresh and clearly very well sourced. It’s generously portioned and you’ll find yourself neatly folding up sheet after sheet of salty, fresh hams before you even realise where it’s all gone. But at that price you can always order another anyway.

The Drink
The drinks list is, frankly, incredible – so much so that it could rival some of London’s better bars. The list of premium spirits they have on offer is lengthy so you won’t be surprised that they have an excellent choice of cocktails, priced at just £7 (incredible value given the quality of the ingredients). They have gone back to the old school – in a trend that’s emerging across London – and have opted for a list of classics that focus on the clarity of the alcohol rather than adding in too many juices and syrups. A couple of margaritas priced at a slightly higher £8 (with a premium Gran Centenario tequila, Cointreau and lime juice) do come with a kick but are so cleanly mixed it’s a pleasure to drink. Be warned though: a couple of these will knock you for six. Otherwise, a white lady (Plymouth gin, Cointreau, lemon juice and egg white) is slightly kinder on the palate with a creaminess from the egg and citrus kick that cuts through the alcohol. They do also have a lengthy wine list, starting at just over £16 a bottle, but it seems a shame to ignore the cocktail selection.

The Last Word
Unusual, innovative, beautiful. Brunswick House Cafe delights all the senses. Now, keep this one to yourselves, please.

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