Boxpark, Unit 61,
Bethnal Green Road,
Shoreditch,
London,
E1 6GY
(020) 7033 6601
The ViewLondon Review
Bukowski Grill is set in Shoreditch’s Boxpark pop-up mall, serving up charcoal-grilled burgers in an industrial space. These big-on-flavour burgers are not for the sensitive palate.
The Venue
Boxpark, dubbed the world’s first pop-up mall, is a makeshift structure of shipping containers located by Shoreditch High Street Station. It houses fashion retailers and trendy, miniature art galleries, as well as an upper deck of hipster hangouts and restaurants. And Bukowski Grill is certainly for the hipsters, with a consciously on-trend low key take to décor that sees white-washed, stripped back walls and only a few lighting fixtures and large landscape photos elevating an otherwise minimalist effect. Lining one side of this tiny, boxed-in shipping container are just four wooden bench tables, although take-away customers can find benches on Boxpark’s outdoor decking. At the back is a small kitchen space, where the Bukowski boys cook at a pace on their charcoal-fired Josper oven.
The Atmosphere
The novelty of its shipping container location helps detract from the cramped space faced by diners. And its pop-up nature, minimalist décor and Shoreditch location give it the requisite cool factor for a clientele mostly comprising the young and trendy out for a bite to eat, with the occasional family or couple taking a punt. Pictures of desert landscapes on the wall and latino and bluegrass music on the stereo give it an On The Road, American vibe.
The Food
The good folk behind Bukowski Grill place great pride in meats and eats sourced selectively from all corners of the UK. This quality produce is one key factor towards the intense taste found in Bukowski’s burgers, with the Josper charcoal-fired oven and grill adding even more depth by rapidly sealing in flavour.
Burgers come in all shapes and sizes, as well as a classic ‘purist’ burger (£5.50), with Hereford beef, oven-dried tomatoes, lettuce and pickled gherkins. The patties are moist, tender and cooked to order. The Purist can be jazzed up a bit with extra toppings, including stilton cheese (£1) or spicy pickled onions and scotch bonnet (50p) for even more bang for your buck.
Away from the traditional, the Iberico Burger (£8.50) is a hefty option, its beef patty topped with morcilla (Spanish black pudding), panceta Iberica and red onion chutney. This rich and meaty affair is served with delicious and juicy, sweet guindilla peppers on the side. The Mother F (£9.80) is a two-patty tower with cheese, bacon, chutney and salad that's so packed with juicy meat that it saturates the bun within which it’s held in minutes... that moniker is entirely apt. Chips are ordered separately and are triple cooked in beef dripping, making them a greasy meal of their own. All the options at Bukowski’s Grill offer a pretty big impact, and although they may taste delicious, they may leave you feeling a tad overwhelmed and over-greased by the end.
The Drink
Bukowski Grill has a bottomless coffee policy for £1.50, although you may be needing something slightly more chilled to wash down a burger and chips. Homeamade lemonade (£1.90) should do the job, or failing that, perhaps a Sunday special Bloody Mary (£5), one of the three cocktails on the menu. The Bloody Mary certainly packs a punch, although it’s possibly a little heavy-handed on the horseradish. Beers are supplied by Hopdaemon, with a Green Daemon beer (£3.60), a Leviathan ruby ale (£3.60) and a Skrimshander I.P.A (£3.60) all on the menu.
The Last Word
With a hip and quirky setting, and a few inspired takes on the traditional burger format, there’s no doubt that Bukowski Grill is a great addition to what's fast becoming a vibrant London burger scene. Just make sure you work up an appetite in advance.
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