Sister venue to the successful Notting Hill operation, Bumpkin brings its own brand of country living to South Kensington.

The Venue
Bumpkin first made headlines when it opened in Notting Hill, introducing – or at least popularising – traditionally British, locally sourced, seasonal food to the bourgeoisie of West London. Now it’s opened a second branch in South Kensington amidst the upscale residences of Old Brompton Road.

The South Kensington location is in a similar style to its sister, with old fashioned wood floors and warm, dark colours. What’s not covered in a colourful velvet or flowery wallpaper is wooden, and the restaurant goes one step further with the whole environmentally friendly angle by reusing objects as furniture: wooden crates double as shelves and an old, library-style filing cabinet holds cutlery. The bar area is towards the front of the restaurant, whereas the rear opens up into a larger eating space with a green tiled open kitchen at the back.

The Atmosphere
Although the draw here is the simple, unfussy comfort food, the crowd seems impossibly glamorous, more at home in heels than Wellies. Even still, it’s a very friendly atmosphere, with helpful, knowledgeable and cheerful staff. They’re clearly passionate about the food and are able to answer questions about the menu without a moment of hesitation. This would be a good place for anything from a quick and casual lunch to a low key, relaxed dinner.

The Food
Regulars of the Notting Hill location won’t be surprised to see that it’s a similar menu here, with seasonal ingredients and British produce taking centre stage. Nearly everything on the list is preceded by a description of where it’s from, be it farm or county. Prices are not outlandish, especially for the area, with most mains between £10 - £15.

Thick, chewy, seeded homemade bread is worth ordering at just £1.50. Starters include a beetroot salad (sourced from Surrey’s Secretts farm) with Bosworth Ash goat’s cheese (£6.50). There are three types of beetroot in the salad, all brightly coloured and fresh but with distinct tastes that work well with the creaminess of the goat’s cheese. The chicken liver parfait (£6.50) is a vivid pink, with a sharp, peppery taste. Served with pear chutney and toasted bread, it makes for a good combination of smooth and crisp textures.

The fish pie (£13 as a main, £9 as a starter) is absolutely packed with fish, big chunks of flaky salmon and meaty haddock, in a thick, white sauce with a crisp, flaky top. All that’s missing is a bit of greens, and a side of fresh spinach does the job nicely. Plantation pork belly (£14) with Savoy cabbage, bacon lardoons and apple cider sauce is a hearty choice, with several strips of sweet, tender pork complete with a crunchy, salty crackling. Although it might be a bit too fatty for some, the meat is lightened with the mix of savoury cabbage and bacon and given a hint of fruit with the trickle of apple cider sauce. Puddings include a Bramley apple, sultana and raspberry streusel with clotted cream (£5), which tastes like a thick, doughy crumble, but in pie form. The homemade ice cream trio (£5) includes scoops of light vanilla, bittersweet espresso and a sharp, tangy blueberry.

The Drink
Bumpkin has a full wine list, with an interesting choice of bottles spread out evenly throughout a few countries. Bottles start at £14.50 and hit £94 for whites and £144 for reds. There’s also a large list of whisky (thirteen types) along with spirits, beers and ales, as well as cocktails from £7.50. One of the speciality cocktails, the English Garden, comes highly recommended by staff and is a good pick if you have a sweet tooth. A pale pink mix of gin, cucumber, mint and apple, it has a slightly sugary taste with a sharp kick thanks to the apple. Bumpkin ale (specially brewed for the restaurant from the Shepherd Neame brewery) is £4 a pint, £2 a half. Golden amber in colour, it’s a full-bodied ale that’s not too heavy.

The Last Word
Bumpkin’s second branch continues the old fashioned ethos that made its Notting Hill branch so popular. Take a break from the glamour of South Kensington and fill up on comfort food.

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