A stylish budget option for weary shoppers and the pre club crowd.

The Venue
Dark woods and low lighting transform the large shared tables from cafeteria to chic – this place is infinitely sexier than your average Wagamama. However, the toilets require a degree in symbology in order to decipher which is the appropriate door and a finely-tuned sense of navigation to safely enter without taking out the entire queue with your handbag. Those who habitually use the ladies for emergency conferences and regrouping be warned, the long stone sink is shared with the men’s toilet.

The Atmosphere
The long queues that usually stretch the length of the restaurant-front and the large shared tables make for an atmosphere of camaraderie in this restaurant and although the London etiquette is mostly observed (if in doubt pretend other people don’t exist), it’s not the place to go for a private conversation or intimate dinner.

The Food
This place does possibly the best fish cakes in the city, heavy on the lime and coriander and delicious for it. For mains, the classics are wonderful – a far cry from the usual bland Thai chain offering – with both the pad thai and green chicken curry zesty and aromatic.

Pandan chicken, which is marinated in coriander root and garlic, then wrapped in pandan leaves and deep fried, tastes incredible – if a little chewy on the outside. Beef Penang is too hot even for a chilli fanatic – the heat could be toned down to make way for the naturally rich flavour of the braised beef, coconut cream and kaffir lime leaf.

Sides of jasmine rice compliment the curries perfectly and morning glory is well worth a try, crunchy, fresh and served in a broth it lifts the meal from naughty to nice.

The Drink
A small selection of international wines and beer is on offer. The rose is fruity and fresh on a summer’s evening but the jasmine tea and fruit smoothies are the real draw on the drinks list.

The Last Word
Good value and worth the wait – this is the perfect antidote to the more sterile chains that flank Oxford Street.

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