Join the queue at Busaba Eathai’s Bird Street location for quick, filling Thai food.

The Venue
A couple of corners away from Bond Street tube station, Busaba Eathai is slightly out of the way enough to avoid the main tourist crowds of Oxford Street. The large, square-shaped room is low on decor but the simple mix of warm lights and dark brown woods is good looking and efficient. There are a few seats along the windows but the majority of tables are large, square, wooden ones that seat about eight, so unless you’ve come with a big group you’ll probably be asked to share. That’s clearly no problem for Busaba’s eager diners, though, who fill the incense-scented waiting area in droves.

The Atmosphere
Dishes all arrive at the same time, or as and when they’re ready. Plenty of restaurants in the capital have this kind of service and it’s usually not a problem, although it’s a bit disconcerting when your food arrives before your drink, and it takes a while to chase it up. The staff, though, to their credit, are constantly rushing around, serving the huge groups and young couples as quickly as they can. Although there’s no rush for you to leave, it’s hard to linger when there’s a huge queue of hungry-looking people waiting for the chance to take your seat.

The Food
And if anything’s a glaring sign that points to quality food, it’s a huge queue. Busaba’s menu is simple but interesting, with all the Thai classics along with dishes you may well have never heard of. The menu is divided up into several different categories, such as salads, soups, noodles, stir fries, grills and curries, and prices are good and portions are big. A som tam salad (green papaya, dried shrimp and cherry tomato, £6.20) is the perfect balance of sweet and sour – a staple of Thai cooking. Rose apple and chicken stir fry (£7.30) is an interesting dish, with a savoury sauce, lots of chicken and chunks of rose apple, which is kind of like a cross between a pear and a potato that actually does have a light floral scent.

Orange curry with mackerel and chow chow (£7.90) is indeed a pretty pale orange colour, with two big pieces of mackerel in the sauce amongst the cabbage-like chow chow. The fish is well cooked but watch out for the occasional bone. A lightly flavoured coconut rice (£2.70) is served in a hollowed out bamboo stick. Thai calamari (£4.70), available as a side, is really delicious, lightly fried and drizzled with a sweet, sugary ginger sauce.

The Drink
There are no desserts but the teas (£2.70) come with biscuits, should you want something sweet. Ginger and honey tea is sharp and refreshing, whilst pandan leaf tea is a bit more subtle. There’s also a selection of soft drinks and juices, of which the thick, fruity Guava Collins (£3.20), a mix of guava, passion fruit, lime and ginger, is recommended.

As for alcoholic drinks, there’s a brief wine list of three whites, reds and roses, all at £3.10 a small glass, £4.20 a large glass and £16.50 a bottle. There are also two slightly pricier options, a French Gerwuztraminer an Argentinean Malbec, both at £29.50 a bottle. Sparkling wine, sake, Kopparberg pear cider and Mekhong whiskey are also available along with Singha, Chang and Beerlao beers, all at £3.60 a bottle.

The Last Word
Fast, frenzied and friendly, Busaba Eathai on Bird Street is worth braving the queue for.

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