After a few years’ hiatus, the family-run Busan returns to Holloway Road, opening up a few doors down but still serving the same excellent Korean fare.

The Venue
Busan’s lengthy absence might have had something to do with saving up money for all the gleaming new fixtures and fittings that sparkle within this attractive, almost minimal new venue. There is the tiniest hint of sterility to it, but on the whole it’s a good-looking spot, with neon-lighting just soft enough to warm up the restaurant’s pale palette without making things look too stark. The menus are tucked under Perspex on the table (something that, surprisingly, doesn’t look cheap) and when you've perused and picked, your order make its way via friendly staff to the chef working from a little open kitchen to the back of the simple, rectangular room.

The Atmosphere
There’s certainly some pace to how dishes arrive at your table, so don’t think this is somewhere at which to while away the hours – it’s not really that kind of place. The staff – all of whom are family - seem pleased to have the place up and running again, and are probably pretty proud that they have something of a reputation around these here parts. And that’s another thing that strikes when dining here: many of the visitors pop in and know exactly which dishes they want, which screams very nicely of repeat-custom.

The Food
A notch above the really cheap, cheerful but very good Asian restaurants dotted around London, Busan’s prices reflect its superior look and (mostly) superior food. But that’s not to say it’s expensive – it still reflects pretty good value, with enough food to defeat even the greediest coming in at around the £25-£30 mark. The quality really is high too, with a selection of impressively authentic Korean and Japanese dishes that slants to the former.

It’s probably best just to order everything at once, as dishes come when they’re ready – to the chagrin of some, it transpires. Kimchi (£2.50) is excellent - a beautiful balance of palate cleansing freshness and chilli kick - whilst edamame (£2.80) is perfectly fine and well salted. An assorted sashimi set (£16.30) shows there’s an emphasis on provenance as the well-handled cuts of salmon, fatty tuna and squid really are very good indeed.

The gunmandu (crispy, fried dumplings filled with mince meat and shredded veg - £6.20) are six brilliant little parcels with thin, dough casing and an excellent sesame sauce on the side, but the samygyeopsal (£7.80) is slightly less impressive, featuring grilled strips of pork belly that aren’t particularly crispy, but are over-seasoned. Even a lettuce wrap and a sweet ssamjang sauce can’t really rescue them.

The most popular choice – and it’s easy to see why – is the dolsot bimbimbap (£8). Served at your table in a hot dolsot (stone pot), the mix of rice, chilli pepper paste, raw egg, vegetables and sesame oil cooks together, with bits of the rice crisping up and offering some delicious chew. It’s a very good version of one of Korea’s most famous dishes.

The Drinks
A surprisingly good house red is a Bordeaux (2009, Chateau du Moulin - £15.45), and is very drinkable but has a decent length to its finish too. It’s obviously not suited to the sushi (there are some solid whites too, though) but it stands up well to the spicier, warm options really well. Asahi and a few other beers are as reliable as ever for this cuisine, and a few soft options make up the rest.

The Last Word
A very welcome return to Holloway Road, Busan has definitely been missed. Islington old and new will be pleased.

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