The burger has undergone something of renaissance in the last couple of years, since its slow relegation back to the kids menu after the mid-90s American diner boom. Even the fanciest eateries will offer burgers made with esoteric topping and ethnic breads. Byron in Kensington is passing over the focaccia and chorizo slices to deliver what it calls proper hamburgers, and making an excellent job of it.

The Venue
Located just a couple of minutes walk from High Street Kensington tube station, on first glance you might mistake Byron for taking itself far too seriously. The seating, accented with turquoise and yellow, and aluminium tables arranged around an open kitchen strongly suggest you are about to be subjected to obscure Chilean beer and a foie gras burger.

The Atmosphere
Enormous glass vases filled with decorative lemons, unused anywhere on the menu except to garnish your coke, do little to dispel this fear. However, as soon as the service kicks in, greeting you warmly and attending to you pleasantly but, more importantly, promptly, you will start to get an entirely different impression.

The Food
The menu is a refreshingly brief affair, offering five burger varieties and a chicken and veggie option. There are a few salads, and a range of simple sides, but the focus at Byron is clearly tasty beef in a bun. If you read the front of the menu or are ask one of the enormously keen staff members, you will be given an exhaustive description of why Byron burgers are delicious: three different bits of the cow all traditionally aged plus bespoke buns freshly made by a fourth generation baker. This will mean very little to anyone not actually involved in catering, but there is little arguing with the end result.

Even ordered medium, each burger is cooked to have just the suggestion of pink in its centre, never to run with oil or fat, and to absolutely nail the balance of herbs and spice and just plain tasty beef. Each dish is served promptly, alone on a small plate with a slice of crunchy pickle, exactly reflecting the kitchens emphasis on simplicity and excellence. A couple of the smaller offerings come with buns decorated with a preponderance of flour dusting, dulling the flavour of the meat and toppings, but aside from that each simple garnish is familiar, tried, tested and true. This is what McDonald's burgers would taste like if the pictures above the counter were actually true. From £5.75 to £8 a plate, you won't be far off Happy Meal prices either.

The Drink
After the simplicity of the menu and the friendliness of the staff, the drinks list most of all betrays the restaurants Kensington location, offering more wines choices than it does burgers. Each to their own, but a good burger with fries and pickle really does require the compliment of a cool beer, and there are five on offer, with the Brooklyn Lager most recommended.

The Last Word
Byron, from its frighteningly pretentious name to minimalist decor does little to immediately tempt the hearty eater through the door. Take the plunge, and you will be pleasantly surprised by fast and friendly service, surrounding a burger that is a serious contender to be the best in London today.

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