Cafe 171

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Venue Image
Jerwood Space,
171 Union Street,
Borough,
London,
SE1 0LN

0872 148 3116
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMichael Darvell27/05/2010
The Jerwood Foundation was established in 1977 by John Michael Jerwood, an importer of pearls. The Foundation sponsors many artistic endeavours, chiefly in the visual arts, opera and dance. Cafe 171 is just one part of the range of activities offered by Jerwood Space in Southwark.

The Venue
Jerwood Space is devoted to the visual arts with a contemporary programme of awards, exhibitions and events promoting the work of talented young artists in drawing, painting, sculpture, applied arts, photography and the moving image. Apart from the gallery, the ground floor also has a cafe to serve the many artists, theatre people and local residents in the area. Cafe 171 comprises a main space with a service counter, a conservatory style area called the Glasshouse, an outside terrace and a garden.

Being a gallery it is bright and airy to display the art works in the best possible light. This extends to the cafe which is delightfully informal and, as it is spread over a large space in four definite and different areas, there is plenty of room to move about. White tables and chairs emphasise the lightness and the brightness, qualities that also extend to the modern canteen fare on offer.

The Atmosphere
It may only claim to be a canteen but Cafe 171 has more to offer. The Old Vic, the Young Vic, the Union and the Menier Chocolate Factory theatres are all within easy reach and, as Jerwood Space offers rehearsal rooms for theatre and dance companies, so the odd familiar face will often be spotted perhaps enjoying a bowl of soup, or a ham and cheese croissant and a smoothie during a break in rehearsals. There is a real buzz to the place, possibly because it is the hub of much artistic endeavour and because of the sort of visitor you might be seated next to, a famous artist, an actor or a dancer.

The Food
The basic menu offers simple fare from an all-day coffee bar menu of hot and cold drinks, fresh juices and shakes, snacks and crisps. The breakfast menu (8.30am to 11am) has pastries and croissants (£1.40 - £2.50) plus savoury items (£1 - £2.90) including scrambled egg, mushrooms, various baguettes such as bacon, sausage, ham and cheese and a full breakfast at £4.50 of bacon, eggs, mushroom, sausage and a baguette. Lunch is served from noon to 2.30pm and offers a list of light bites (£2.95 - £5.85) such as a mezze platter of hummus, artichokes, olives and pitta bread, aubergine Parmagiano with green salad, a large mixed garden salad with balsamic dressing, omelettes and a soup of the day. Main course salads (£7.95) come with tuna steak, chicken Caesar or there’s a vegetarian one with halloumi cheese and roast vegetables. There are homemade burgers (£7.85) and a list of five main dishes at £7.95 such as grilled lemon chicken, lamb and vegetable shish kebab, sirloin steak, baked salmon and a vegetarian grilled feast. Dishes of the day might include ribs, leg of duck or chorizo paella.

Apart from the soup (the huge bowl of cauliflower and stilton seems to go down well) there are no special starters. However, it’s worth sharing one of the main course salads. The grilled tuna steak is a deliciously moist and flavoursome cut of the fish served with new potatoes, green beans, anchovies, boiled egg and mixed leaves making an excellent Nicoise salad. Chicken Caesar salad is also a classic with cos lettuce, bacon. Parmesan, anchovies and a tangy dressing – both make real appetite boosters.

From the main courses the baked salmon supreme is supreme indeed, a first class piece of fresh salmon, beautifully but lightly cooked and served with sauteed new potatoes, green beans, butternut squash, sun blushed tomatoes and dill creme fraiche, a really fine combination that actually makes the fish stand out. Salmon can be bland but this is truly bursting with flavour. Of the homemade burgers (chicken, beef or veggie) the chicken is marinated with lemon and herbs, so already has a good start in the flavour stakes. Tucked into a ciabatta roll and served with balsamic onions, rocket and mayonnaise, it is startlingly good fare topped off by what must be the best crisp chunky chips south of the river.

Desserts do not figure large on the menu, although you could finish with a muffin or a Danish pastry, some chocolate or fresh fruit. However, if Cafe 171 happens to have any chocolate brownies around, snap them up because they are light and chocolatey and come with a dollop of whipped cream – excellent!

The Drink
The various teas and some very good coffee are reasonably priced from £1 a cup and there is a good selection of sodas, fruit juices and mineral waters. A litre jug of juice is just £4. The smoothies and fresh juices (£2.75) include banana and strawberries, carrot, apple and ginger and a very good homemade lemonade with freshly squeezed lemons mixed with your choice of still or fizzy water. There are four whites and four reds on the wine list (£14 - £19.50 a bottle) including a very drinkable Spanish Chardonnay and a fine Chilean Merlot. All wines are available by the glass from £3.40. A couple of sparklers and a few beers complete a shortish drinks list.

The Last Word
For an enterprising selection of top quality dishes using products from sustainable sources and the freshest of ingredients, Cafe 171 cannot be beaten. Add the exceptionally good-value prices and you have another reason to seek out this totally charming eaterie. The art is pretty good, too.
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