Legend has it that Dick Whittington, on the verge of admitting defeat and leaving London, turned back to the ringing of the Bow bells. Many a self-confessed Cockney sparrer will tell you they were born within the sound of those bells, in the mistaken belief that they toll in Bow Church in Tower Hamlets. A true campanologist, however, will correctly inform you that these famous bells are heard from the church of St Mary-le-Bow in Cheapside, where you will also find Cafe Below.

The Venue
Formerly called The Place Below, this cafe has recently expanded its operations to include serving supper, an altogether more relaxed affair than its bustling lunchtime service. The venue was opened by Bill Sewell in 1989 to cater for the needs of the Square Mile and the name was changed 20 years later to alert City types to the oasis beneath their feet.

The Atmosphere
In the crypt of the church, Cafe Below is tranquil and elegant, all soaring arches and ancient stone pillars — the original St Mary’s was built more than 900 years ago — with subtle lighting and unobtrusive music. The church itself was destroyed by the Great Fire of London in 1666 and rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren. Later, it succumbed to bombing in World War II and was again rebuilt and reconsecrated in 1964.

The Food
Until recently, Cafe Below was vegetarian only, but – happily – is now catering for carnivores too. Its veggie roots – if you’ll pardon the pun – are apparent still in its menu, which features a veggie plate, a risotto and usually one other vegetarian option. Which is quite impressive, given how truncated the menu is. It changes every day and generally includes four or five choices of starter, main and pudding. Constants include the aforementioned veggie plate and a Spanish version, which includes Serrano ham and chorizo.

Star of the veggie version is undoubtedly Cafe Below’s baba ghanoush, smooth and smoky, accompanied by halloumi, roasted peppers, olives and habas fritas, crunchy fried broad beans. They taste a lot better than they sound. Both plates are complemented by home-baked bread, of which Cafe Below is justly proud; on a recent visit the staff came in early to make it by hand due to a broken bread mixer. Above and beyond the call of duty. This marvellous bread also comes with the soup of the day, which might be their Thai-style minestrone. It’s not particularly Thai nor is it minestrone but it’s none the worse for that – deep, earthy flavours with a hint of heat.

Main courses, at first, appear less impressive than the starters. Sausages with a cider and leek broth and pan-fried mackerel with roasted new potatoes both look uninteresting – and pretty much the same colour. But if you could see flavours, they would cover the whole spectrum. The sausages – Tudge’s own, couriered from Herefordshire and well worth the journey – are meaty and full-flavoured, complemented by the sweet broth thickened to silky gorgeousness by haricot beans and creamy, buttery mash. You’d happily eat it every day of the week. For every meal. Whilst not in the same league, the generously sized mackerel fillet is beautifully cooked and set off nicely by perfectly seasoned Savoy cabbage with bacon.

A hot chocolate brownie with clotted cream is oozy and gooey in the right places, whilst a chocolate and chestnut cake with warm chocolate sauce is deep and dark and damp. Nothing on the menu costs more than £9.50. Food this good and at this price in London is rarer than mermaids’ kneecaps. Cafe Below adds a 10 per cent service charge – as opposed to the more usual 12 per cent – and assures its diners that 100 per cent is shared among the staff. They can’t tell porkies in a church, now can they?

The Drink
Like its menu, Cafe Below’s wine list is short but sweet. Chilean Poco Mas, in the form of a sauvignon and a merlot, is always reliable. There’s an extremely quaffable French chardonnay – with a screw cap, sacre bleu! – plus an Italian pinot and offerings from Argentina, Australia and Spain. A Valdivia Pedro Ximenez serves as pudding wine – apparently, poured over ice cream, it takes on a maple syrup sweetness.

Even better, a bottle of bona fide bubbles will only set you back £32. What a bargain. Pilsner, stout and ale are provided by the Greenwich Meantime Brewery, and there’s an organic cider and perry from Herefordshire. This church is heaven for drinkers, too.

The Last Word
It’s tempting, actually, to give Cafe Below a bad review so it will remain the hidden gem that it is, but it truly deserves a wider audience. And you won’t make just one visit — like Dick Whittington, you’ll turn back to the siren call of the Bow bells.

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