63 Old Compton Street,
Soho,
London,
W1D 6HP
0871 971 6442
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
This no-frills Spanish eatery has bagged itself a prime spot which seems to be working very well for them, regardless of the food they serve.
The Venue
The Spanish-owned Café España sits conspicuously on Old Compton Street, guaranteeing a steady stream of customers as workers, tourists and Soho locals pass idly by. It does get busy, and consequently this tiny eatery can feel cramped at times, and as they don’t take bookings it’s sometimes necessary to wait.
The Atmosphere
Friday nights can be noisy and crowded, whereas lunchtimes are a lot quieter, with couples and even people dining on their own rather than raucous groups of friends lining their stomachs before a big night out wandering their way around Soho.
The Food
A busy restaurant must mean the food is excellent, right? The answer is no, unfortunately, as immediately evidenced by the bread and alioli. Bog standard mayonnaise has had a few cloves of crushed garlic added to it, meaning the result is a sweet-tasting, mottled-looking mess. The Manchego cheese platter contains a very mild soft cheese rather than the strong-tasting semi-curado or matured version that's typically served. The olives could have come out of an inexpensive supermarket jar, while the cold meat platter with chorizo, lomo and Serrano ham appears to have the lowest quality meat money can buy, with flavourless, fatty slices of chorizo and chewy cured tenderloin. Luckily the thin green padron peppers fried in olive oil and salt are tasty and pleasantly crunchy, and, alongside the moreish anchovies in batter, save the meal from being a total disaster.
The Drink
Food misshaps aside, Café España does sell some excellent wines. A Rioja Reserva from 2001 is only £20 and greatly raises the standard of the meal (and mood).
The Last Word
A restaurant in Spain would never get away with some of the food served here; one can only assume its success lies in its plethora of passing trade. If it’s quality Spanish food you’re after, stay well away.
Cafe Espana has been reviewed by 18 users