One of the capital’s most famous Indian restaurants proves that even after more than a dozen years in the business, it still does things just a bit differently.

The Venue
Located on a side street near Tower Bride tube, Cafe Spice Namaste beckons in hungry diners with its bright orange sign. A small, purple painted bar area in the front opens up into a large, high ceilinged room that’s bursting with colour: greens, blues, purples and the ever-present orange are all mixed through the decor. With loads to look at (drapery, vases, beautiful stained glass windows) it’s all a bit haphazard but the effect is warm and friendly.

Those who haven’t been to this restaurant have probably heard of it before, as its proprietor and executive chef, Cyrus Todiwala, is forever appearing on TV, championing the best things about Indian food. He does this with good reason though – the man was awarded an MBE, for crying out loud! – and both he and the restaurant have won a handful of other awards.

The Atmosphere
Thanks to its reputation the Cafe Spice Namaste fills up fairly quickly with groups of friends, families and couples, and despite its proximity to The City it doesn’t feel overly formal – you’ll have to search hard to find a pinstripe suit. Smartly attired staff are friendly but reservedly professional and know the menu inside and out.

The Food
You could go to Cafe Spice Namaste and easily spend an hour reading the menu. Each dish has an in-depth explanation, which includes everything from minute details about how it’s prepared to the history behind the food and how it’s traditionally eaten. Some of the menu is actually quite funny – the Tandoor section warns diners: ‘Cafe Spice also wishes to inform our patrons that the use of any colouring in our kitchens has always been banned and therefore we cannot please those who expect our dishes to be brightly coloured and iridescent.’ You don’t get that kind of assurance in your local takeaway. With such a large range of dishes there’s a fair amount of different prices as well, but it’s safe to say that most mains average at about £15 and most starters at about £5.

A plate of poppadoms (spicy and plain) and four types of pickle, chutney and yoghurt start things off nicely. The Tiger Prawn Chilli Fry (£6.95) starts things off with a bang: the prawns are spicier than expected, but in a good way, and taste sweet and succulent. It’s serve with a doughy, olive oil-soaked pitta, the perfect way to soak up the spices. Papeta Nay Kheema Na Pattice (£5.95) are two lightly fried, round potato cakes filled with minced beef – incredibly warm and moist whilst still having a bit of a crunch to it. The accompanying tomato chutney is a firey red in a colour but with a tangy and sugary taste, blending perfectly with the potato.

Mains include Murgh Ni Curry Nay Papeto (£14.25), a mouthwatering curry that tastes far more complicated than it looks; the simple chunks of chicken and potato are deceiving as the rich sauce contains everything from chickpeas to coconut to cashews and almonds, perfect for those who like creamy dishes. Dhaansaak (£14.50) is, according to the menu, a traditional Parsee Sunday roast. The menu goes on to say ‘Please do not confuse this dish with its namesake sold elsewhere. We are Parsees and we know exactly how to prepare this dish the correct way!’ After trying it though, you’ll see what all the fuss is about, as the lamb is incredibly tender and the rich brown sauce deliciously savoury. Although it looks like there are only a few chunks of meat in the dish, it’s more filling than you’ll anticipate – a little goes a long way. The accompanying brown onion rice is flavourful, whereas the onion salad gives it a bit of a spicy edge. Peshawari Naan (£2.95) as a side is soft and so sweet it could almost be a pudding.

As for the actual puddings that are available, however, there’s a fairly long list, including specialties, kulfis, ice creams and sorbets. The Bebinca with ice cream (£5.50) is slightly dense, a good blend of warm flavours, whilst the Rose Kulfi (£3.95) is a good end to the meal, with an icy, grainy texture and a light, sweet, palate cleansing taste.

The Drink
About 25 different choices of wine are available, including an Argentinean Malbec, Alto Pampas del Sur (£16.50) which tastes incredibly rich, but not too heavy. Other bottles circle the globe from France and Spain to Australia and the US, ranging in price from £16.50 to about £60. Cobra, Kingfisher and Tiger are on offer as well.

The Last Word
Whilst there’s no doubt that there are plenty of Indian restaurants in London, very few have the creativity of Cafe Spice Namaste. Come here to try dishes you’ve never seen before, as well as a more traditional take on standard favourites.

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