Cambio de Tercio

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 3 reviews

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163 Old Brompton Road,
South Kensington,
London,
SW5 0LJ

0871 971 5477
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMeghan 30/12/2008
Located on a quiet section of Old Brompton Road, Cambio de Tercio brings the warmth of Spain to the heart of Chelsea.

The Venue
The dining room is small and intimate, like walking into the drawing room of a private home. The colourful walls, hung with modern Spanish paintings, and the deep red ceiling give the room a welcoming ambience with a distinctly Spanish feel. The overall impression is of impeccable refinement fused with southern European hospitality.

The Atmosphere
The crowd is smartly dressed and sophisticated but relaxed, a mix of locals for whom this is a home away from home along with those from further a field drawn by the restaurant’s reputation. The warmth of the surroundings pervades the service as well. Diners are welcomed like old friends as they enter, coats hung, chairs pulled out, and pre-dinner aperitifs expertly served. This is the kind of faultless, traditional service you don’t necessarily expect to find in a small restaurant tucked away on Old Brompton Road. The impeccably well-mannered Spanish waiters strike the perfect balance of friendliness, knowledge and efficiency, a rarity in London.

The Food
The extensive tapas menu is divided into hot and cold sections, and there is so much to tempt the appetite that you may find it impossible to move onto the main courses. Thankfully, the main courses can be ordered as smaller tapas dishes as well, so you can either order a traditional appetizer and main course, or share number of tapas dishes as a table.

The menu is modern Spanish, using seasonal produce. Cold tapas dishes range from tuna tartar to foie gras alongside simpler favourites such as organic chorizo and goat’s cheese. The warm tapas dishes include the traditional garlic prawns, calamari and melty ham and bechamel croquettes. With so many mouthwatering options to choose from, the waiters are happy to recommend their favourites. Most tapas dishes are priced under ten pounds, apart from a few of the more exotic selections.

Mains include roasted quail with a fig and vegetable risotto, which is succulent and bursting with flavour. The sweetness of the figs marries beautifully with the rich gamey taste of the meat. The crunchy roasted suckling pig has the most magnificent crackling, encasing the juicy white meat inside. Flavours are sumptuous yet fresh, reflecting the high quality of the ingredients, many of which are sourced directly from Spain.

The Drink
The wine list is heavy on Spanish reds, and is on the expensive side, starting at around £20 per bottle for the house selection. Most other bottles hover around the £40 to £50 range, though should you wish to splurge you can certainly spend much more. Like the food, the wine list is carefully chosen and the waiters are more than willing to provide expert guidance whatever your price range. It is worth treading beyond familiar Rioja territory here, as there is a vast selection of top notch wines from regions all across Spain, most of which will undoubtedly be unfamiliar to the Spanish wine novice, and next to impossible to find elsewhere in London.

The Last Word
Cambio de Tercio is an exceptional Spanish dining experience, from the creatively prepared, impeccably sourced food and wine straight through to the welcoming ambiance and flawless service. Cambio de Tercio is a must for lovers of Spanish cuisine and hospitality.
Cambio de Tercio has been reviewed by 3 users

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