The ViewLondon Review
A stylish and enticing hotel restaurant serving good-quality food in a beautiful location on the edge of Wimbledon Common.The VenueCannizaro House used to be a fairly staid Thistle Hotel, but the new owners, Bridgehouse Hotels, have fought hard to shake off the little old ladies taking cream teas image and they have largely been successful. Extensive refurbishment and landscaping around the place have created a truly beautiful Wimbledon venue and shed the hotel’s conservative image – think Boris not Doris. Contemporary art hangs in a stylish faux-Edwardian reception and dining room and large windows bring the sweeping gardens right into the room. Arrive early in good weather and enjoy a gin and tonic on the expansive terrace overlooking the gardens away from the main common.
The AtmosphereUnderstandably popular with wedding parties, the atmosphere often depends on the tone of the wedding. Bridesmaids and hopeful best men can be found enjoying the last of the free champagne on the terrace. However, the place is by no means one-dimensional and this is no pack-em-in wedding factory, the restaurant and bar are destinations in their own right, ensuring there is a good mix of local couples and small parties luxuriating in the comfortable surroundings.
The FoodHead chef Christian George has been tasked by Bridgehouse to take on the likes of Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, and while the venue is certainly up there the food is not quite. But Chez Bruce sets a very high standard and the fact Cannizaro House falls short does not mean the food is poor. Quite the contrary. The starters are on the money - the foie gras is of top quality with a consistency like butter and just melts in the mouth and the salmon is fatty and full of flavour.
It's on the mains though that the food comes up slightly short. A monkfish and squid rice combination doesn’t dazzle with neither the rice nor the fish having enough flavour to make any kind of impact. A souped-up Welsh Rarebit is similarly underwhelming. A shame, as the desserts and cheese were of a similar quality to the starters and finish off the meal perfectly.
The DrinkThe cocktail bar jars slightly – a bright white neon bar top clashed slightly with the piano and Renaissance-style fittings in reception – but like the rest of the place the clash between old and new seems to work and gives Cannizaro the contemporary edge it needs to draw in Wimbledon residents used to going to the West End for their style fix. A comprehensive cocktail menu should suit most tastes if not most wallets, and a good selection of whiskies makes waiting for a taxi after dinner a very pleasurable experience. The bar is not the biggest though and despite the decor is still a hotel bar and consequently lacks the atmosphere of a more intimate drinking hole.
The Last WordCannizaro House is a beautiful place. The decor is stylish, the gardens charming and the atmosphere welcoming. The location means it is slightly off the beaten track for Wimbledon Village, but the overall experience certainly makes it worth the trek.
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