35-42 Charlotte Road,
Shoreditch,
London,
EC2A 3PD
0871 971 6334
The ViewLondon Review
A Shoreditch stalwart, Cantaloupe kick-started the scene over a decade ago. The first bar in the area, it’s always been as essential to Shoreditch as misunderstood haircuts, bubbling new musical hybrids and devil may care debauchery. Years later, Cantaloupe is now a teenager but instead of any angst it’s growing up gracefully.The VenueThe long wooden tables, the slightly dishevelled air, the warm red walls and the comfortably battered seating in the bar area ensure that as soon as you step through the door you immediately feel at home. Newcomers rub shoulders with old timers whose conversations (‘the first time I came here was back when Shoreditch was just getting started’) are full of predictable fondness for the oldie but goodie that is Cantaloupe. Further seating can be found at the back with squishy leather sofas arranged around low tables whilst up the steps there’s a slightly more formal restaurant area.
The AtmosphereWhen it’s at its best Shoreditch is one of the friendliest areas to socialise in the capital and Cantaloupe still captures the zeitgeist, serving it up with a smile. More often than not DJs can be found behind the decks and couples and groups of friends move freely from the bar area to the restaurant area and then back again during the course of a night.
The FoodEasygoing dining is the name of the game at Cantaloupe and the South American cuisine fits the bill beautifully, served up swiftly without any unnecessary fuss. Start the meal with grilled ciabatta bread dipped into olive oil and balsamic vinegar before moving onto the starters. The steak and chorizo salad with yoghurt dressing (£7.50) is generously sized although the thin slivers of steak and tiny pieces of chorizo are a disappointment for the price; this would be easily rectified with a slightly more generous hand from the chef as the combination of ingredients in the salad is delicious. Unfortunately, the king prawns cooked in white wine and chilli and garlic butter (£4.90) are less impressive. The prawns lack any discernible flavour and, as they are cooked in their shells, aren’t able to soak up any of the white wine, chilli and garlic butter. A shame as the spoonful of Marie Rose dressing served on the side doesn’t compensate.
The main courses are far more successful and really reasonably priced. Cantaloupe is well known for its steaks which come from a cross of Hereford and Aberdeen Angus cattle that have grazed on Uruguan pampas and the meat is then aged for at least five weeks. The chargrilled 8oz sirloin steak is of a decent quality for the price at £12.50, perfectly cooked to order and full of flavour. Sides are sized for two to share and include sweet potato mash, rice or new potatoes at £2.50 each and sweet potato fries with sour cream and sweet chilli sauce at £3.30. The stuffed aubergine (£9) is exceptional and won’t just appeal to veggies. The aubergine halves are beautifully tender and lined with spinach and then topped with layer after layer of melted mozzarella and tomatoes that taste of leisurely days spent ripening in sunny climes.
As for the desserts (all priced at £5), the cheesecake with dulche de leche and cinnamon wild berry compote and the Peruvian dark chocolate mousse with pistachio ice cream are the most authentic options, but you’ll be sorely tempted by the pecan pie served with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream too. The warm dessert is sweet without being cloying, thanks to the generous amount of pecan nuts whose woody flavour adds depth whilst the texture finds just the right balance between fluffy and substantial and works perfectly with the slightly melted vanilla ice cream. If you haven’t a sweet tooth, opt for the cheese plate and sample thin slices of both mild and strong Spanish cheeses (Manchego, Garrotxa, Picos de Europa Blue and Membrillo) that’s served with a generous pile of grilled flat bread.
The DrinkIf you don’t have room for dessert then Carajillo (espresso with Appleton’s VX rum on the side) is a great alternative as is a snifter of Courvoisier (Courvoisier VS is £3.50 a glass whilst a glass is Courvoisier XO is a blow the budget £9.50). There are also plenty of rums (from Barbados, Jamaica and Venezuela and priced at £3-£4) and whiskies (from £2.80-£4.80 and hailing from America, Ireland and Scotland) to choose from. However, Cantaloupe’s real strength lies in its wine and cocktail lists. Wines start at £3.20 a glass, originate from South America, Spain and Portugal and are an excellent accompaniment to the food. The Argentinian Malbec Reserva is a superior quality red (£4.30 for 175ml, £6.80 for 250ml or £18 a bottle) and is deliciously heavy, full bodied and smooth with hints of coconut from American oak.
As for the cocktails, it’s hard to resist them when you know that for an extra 60p you can add your own hit of Amazonian super fruit. Choose from acerola (containing one of the highest known levels of vitamin C) or acai berry (a Brazilian fruit reputed to contain one of the most effective antioxidants in the world). They may not keep you from a hangover the next day but they’ll definitely encourage you to order more cocktails and shooters. Shooters start at £4.50 and include the tropical sounding Ipanema (vodka, passion fruit, lime juice and Chambord) and Copacabana (white and dark creme de cacao, apple liqueur and cinnamon schnapps). Cocktails start at £6.50 for the more basic combinations such as the Hoxton Thing (gin, elderflower cordial and lemon juice topped with soda and cranberry juice) and go up to £7.50 for Champagne cocktails that include the Brazilian Fizz (cachaca, apple juice, ginger and Champagne) and Fraise Royale (fresh strawberries, creme de fraise and Champagne).
The Last WordIf you’re a fan of Shoreditch then you’ll be hard pressed not to appreciate Cantaloupe’s charm. Offering cheap and cheerful dining alongside quality music and cocktails, Shoreditch’s first bar has grown up but it still continues to deliver over a decade later.
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