The third branch of the British favourite brings warming winter dishes to Baker Street, but will it be as successful as its other two outposts?

The Venue
After popular locations in Spitalfields Market and the Royal Festival Hall, Canteen has branched out with another venue on Baker Street. Situated midway between Marylebone Road and Oxford Street, it’s a bit too far from the main drags to stumble upon, but perseverance – and a ten minute walk or so – will bring you right to the glass door. It’s a bright, happy looking room, with a posh diner style and retro charm. There’s seating to the right, left and rear of the entrance, and directly in front is a bar area complete with a cakes cabinet, stocked full of sprinkle-covered cupcakes. Rainbow lamps hang from the ceiling, and booths are covered with a knobbly green fabric. Tables are topped simply with paper placemats that double as menus and bottles of Heinz ketchup and HP Sauce. A high table with stools makes an ideal place for singular dining, but otherwise the tables are mostly arranged for groups of two and four.

The Atmosphere
With a surprisingly large amount of office space Canteen practically guarantees a busy lunchtime trade, however it’s a little too far off the beaten path to guarantee many walk-ins, and is likewise a little empty on weeknights. It would be an ideal spot for the well-informed tourist; Square Pie at Selfridges is just down the road but it’s worth it to walk the extra bit for equally recognised pies in a slightly more upscale setting. Service is fine but some of the staff could be a bit cheerier – there are much worse places to work – and you’d expect the passionate menu and company ethos to reflect in their staff.

The Food
The menu reads like a to-do list of the best in British comfort food, with locally sourced, seasonal produce the focus. The restaurant is famous for their pies, which cost £10.95 and change daily, accompanied with mash, greens and gravy. Daily fish, stews, bakes and roasts are also available, along with bar snacks (from £3.75), a fast service menu and a children’s menu, which features half a portion of any dish for half the price. Prices are reasonable for Central London, with the most expensive main being a 28-day aged rib-eye steak for £15.50.

Starters kick things off on the right foot with a salad of Cashel blue cheese, chicory, pear and hazelnut (£6.50). The slightly sour taste of the crisp chicory blends well with the creamy cheese and the sweetness of the pear, and the dish has just the right amount of bite. The potted duck (£7.50) is thick and tender, and the accompanying piccalilli is sweet, piquant and a lovely warm yellow colour with flecks of mustard seed. Several thin slices of crisp toast finish off the dish.

From the list of mains, macaroni cheese (£8) is served in a large dish, the pasta gooey, cheesy and warming, with a sprinkling of breadcrumbs on top for added texture. Pork belly with baked apple (£12.50) is a similarly large portion, with three fat slices of pork that stretch across the plate and two golden brown half apples. The pork is perfectly seasoned, with a slight aniseed taste, but the crackling could be a bit crisper. A side of greens (£3.50) is a decent portion of well cooked, buttery veg, but you’d probably need to double up if you want to share.

Desserts are slightly disappointing, with an overly sugary treacle tart (£6) and a lacklustre plate of Neal’s Yard cheeses (£8.50). Although it’s a nice idea that the cheeses change frequently and are quite unusual (Haford, Strathdon Blue, Dorstone and Ardrahan) it would be good to see some reliable old favourites as well. It’s a reasonably expensive plate but the portion doesn’t seem to match the price, and the accompanying chutney is too sweet for such strong flavours.

The Drink
Canteen has an impressively long list of drinks, from cocktails and wines to ales and ciders. Cocktails start from a very reasonable £6 and follow the seasonal, local theme of the food, such as the Cockney Cobbler, made with apple vodka, pear liqueur, lemon juice, triple sec and apple juice. Wines are available by the large and small glass from £3.25 and £12.50 a bottle, with a couple of English choices commendably included amongst France, Spain, Italy, New Zealand and the US. Lager, ale, stout and cider start at under £4 and include Samuel Smith Organic, St Austell’s Clouded Yellow, Meantime Pale Ale and a crisp, refreshingly sweet Weston’s Organic Cider. Freshly made juices are also on offer with teas, coffees, hot chocolate (available with malt and rum) and Horlicks as well.

The Last Word
Although three venues are surely enough to call Canteen a chain restaurant, with their admirable ethos and old fashioned comfort food, they’ll surely find welcome in the hearts of Londoners.

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