Garrick Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2E 8JE
(020) 7836 0990
The ViewLondon Review
It was a sad day for Antonio Carluccio and his loyal customers when he had to shut up shop at Neal Street Restaurant, his first fine dining eaterie which additionally housed the first Caluccios deli and saw the likes of Jamie Oliver training in the kitchen. However, in the words of Alabama, you can’t keep a good man down, a point more than proven by the magnificent flagship restaurant in the heart of Covent Garden that he has since opened to rave reviews.The VenueCarluccios Covent Garden is the flagship restaurant of the burgeoning Carluccios restaurant group that Londoners seemingly can’t get enough of. Located on bustling Garrick Street it’s mere moments away from both Covent Garden Piazza and Leicester Square ensuring a steady stream of passing tourists, local office workers and destination diners through the doors.
The building is impressive and has the appearance of a private house at first glance. In the foyer hangs an unusual installation in the form of a modern chandelier constructed of pieces of paper with sketches of ideas for what fixture will eventually hang in its place, although it’s so striking that they’d do well to leave it as it is. Leading off to the right is a vast deli and shop, to the left a cafe with bright blue banquette seating around the edges and small individual tables scattered around the enormous room, whilst a sweeping Italianate faded grandeur styled staircase lined with pots of fresh herbs leads to the first floor.
The first floor dining room is far more formal with its floor to ceiling windows flooding natural light into the room during the day, dappling the mushroom banquette seating and illuminating the bright orange individual chairs. In the private dining room opposite, red drapes hang from the windows creating a more intimate environment especially when the room is candle-lit at night.
The AtmosphereThe next best thing to holidaying on the Italian coast, Carluccios Covent Garden really embodies the essence of La Dolce Vita without becoming pretentious in any way. Prices remain the same as other restaurants in the group ensuring that there’s a friendly mix of Londoners from all walks of life including sharp suited workers talking business, mothers enjoying a coffee and a pastry, groups of friends chatting and laughing over a large plate of antipasti and couples soulfully twirling spaghetti around their forks whilst gazing flirtatiously up at each other from beneath heavy eyelashes. Meanwhile, in the private dining room there’s always a party atmosphere at night.
The FoodOffering hearty Italian food that’ll fit any appetite and budget, Carluccios serves up more of the same but it’s just as good as it always was. Start the meal with bruschetta which is nice and garlicky and a delicious blend of ripe tomatoes, yellow peppers and herbs. Antipasto Massimo is also a great choice if there’s a big group; it includes salami, roast ham and stuffed chicken plus a refreshingly crisp green bean and mint salad. As for main courses, it’s really got to be pasta. Particularly recommended are the traditionally served gigantic pieces of ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and spinach and swimming in butter and sage. The Tortellini All’Emiliana is just as good but edging more towards comfort food with its filled pasta parcels drenched in a ham and cream sauce. Both dishes are reasonably priced at just under £7.00 and benefit from the additional fresh Parmesan and black pepper which is added according to your taste.
Round the meal off with gelato, the Italian version of ice cream especially the bitter chocolate or Arabica coffee flavours. During winter months, it’s hard to beat the warm chocolate and kahlua pudding served with creamy vanilla ice cream but if you fancy something lighter, the refreshing elderflower jelly served with seasonal fruit is ideal.
The DrinkAs you’d expect wine is the most popular drink with glasses starting at less than £3.00, although mini bottles of brightly coloured Campari and soda are also in evidence on several tables. If you don’t like extremely sour drinks though make sure that you request your Campari with orange to take the edge off as otherwise it can be eye-wateringly tart. Bottled beers aren’t run of the mill either here – take your pick from Peroni Red, Peroni Nastro Azzurro and Gran Riserva. Round off the meal with either Bicerin (a traditional drink hailing from Torino comprising of small jugs of Florentine drinking chocolate, cream and espresso coffee which you then mix to taste) or a Granita Di Limone, great for cleansing your palate thanks to all the crushed ice.
The Last WordAs the flagship restaurant of a much loved group of restaurants, Carluccios Covent Garden had a lot to live up to and refreshingly it delivers in spades. Whether it’s impressive architecture, a vibrant atmosphere, quality cuisine or reasonable prices you’re looking for when you eat out in Central London, you’ll find it all here. Molto bene!