Located at Heathrow’s much maligned Terminal 5, Carluccios offers order amongst the chaos, it’s just a shame it feels almost as soulless as the airport itself.

The Venue
With the reputation Terminal 5 has garnered for itself, it’s nice to have a well established chain like Carluccios setting up shop to serve up something tasty to stressed holiday makers. It’s one of only a couple of venues on the top floor of the terminal and although the interior boasts a few rustic Italian elements, the overall feel is one of sterility. It’s an immaculate restaurant with clean cut glass, mirrors and a large open plan kitchen but instead of being somewhere to seek refuge, Carluccios feels more like an extension of the airport thanks to a huge glass facade that fails to offer an adequate distinction between terminal and restaurant.

Despite the futuristic lighting, immaculate surfaces and almost clinical cleanliness Carluccios doesn’t have that authentic aura that others in the chain have, it feels, much like the terminal itself, a little corporate. Its lack of detachment is heightened by the fact that the restaurant doesn’t have its own toilet, instead forcing diners to leave the premises and use the terminal’s, albeit impressive, facilities that lie a short walk away.

The Atmosphere
It’s difficult to sum up the atmosphere of an establishment like this. Most visitors will be excited and in good spirits but some, especially during the terminal’s opening period, might be justifiably stressed. Carluccios itself offers a relatively serene environment in which to dine, thanks to some superb service and an informal ambience. It works well as both a good place to settle down for a relaxed meal as well as somewhere to grab a quick bite before check in. Consequently there’s a mix of people, those with time on their hands and those looking to sate their appetite quickly in lieu of the more ominous offerings on the plane. The relaxed atmosphere the restaurant generates is very welcome, but its failure to distinguish itself completely from the terminal means you’re unlikely to have the same authentic experience as at one of the more central London locations.

The Food
There’s no reason to mess with a winning formula and the menu is certainly that. A host of superbly authentic dishes are on the menu so if quality Italian fare is your particular cup of tea then you know you’re in for a treat. Of particular note is an excellent calamari starter that’s very well prepared with a light and crisp, almost tempura batter. The execution is good too, with a nice al dente bite that will be gratefully received by those who have encountered poorly cooked, chewier versions. It’s served on a small, almost apologetic green salad that’s hardly the most exciting, but which complements the calamari well.

The pan fried calves liver, served with a delicious red onion jam and aromatic rosemary sauteed potatoes, is okay, yet some might be put off by slightly uneven cooking that results in a centre that’s just a smidgeon too rare. Desserts are suitably exquisite though and laid out seductively to whet the appetite nicely. The lemon tart is recommended, boasting a light, soft and vibrant curd sitting atop a deliciously sweet glazed pastry.

The Drink
As you’d expect from any branch of this restaurant, there’s a sound wine list that boasts some great choices that are both affordable and well thought out. The Sicilian house red is spicy and rich, whilst those looking to spend a little more will be rewarded with a sumptuous chianti that offers a delicate balance between fruit and spice. There are plenty of options for children too, with carbonated favourites backed up by fresh lemonade, fresh juices and granita di limone – a traditional crisp and refreshing iced lemon drink from Sicily. Blended coffees are superb, with both the mild and the rich blends being as good as any you will find this side of your flight.

The Last Word
Offering many of the same excellent ingredients that have made the chain so popular, this Carluccios offers a hint of your holiday before you even check in. It’s just a shame it feels more like a business trip than an escape to the Tuscan hills.

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