At this rate, Carluccios is likely to consume the capital and swallow it whole. The latest addition to their ever expanding empire demonstrates the success of a simple formula – competent food at comfortable prices and an atmosphere that’s always more than welcoming.

The Venue
Wimbledon wasn’t exactly crying out for another European chain restaurant what with Strada, Cafe Rouge and Pizza Express within spitting distance of the newly formed Carluccios. But such is the steady durability of the quartet in question coupled with a local crowd with plenty of spare change, there seems to be space for all of them on this smart and sizeable strip.

The most pleasing aspect of Carluccios’ interior is its spaciousness. There’s a plush quartz bar near the entrance as well as a large communal table that seats eight to ten people and the deli – often segregated from the main dining area in similar establishments – is situated on the very edge of the action. Oak flooring and sky blue leather sofas add to the cool modernity of the caffe whilst a large landscape picture of an age-old Italian town offers a hint of humble rusticity.

The Atmosphere
Authenticity is often difficult to preserve when a chain expands but one of Carluccios’ strengths is the ability to keep its essence intact without compromising accessibility and mainstream appeal. Clientele in Wimbledon village tend to be of the exclusive, affluent variety and you might expect a restaurant in this neck of the woods to have an indeterminate, diluted feel to it. On the contrary, staff, most of whom originate from Italy, lend the establishment a pastoral prominence that belies its plush purified surroundings.

The Food
For starters, mushroom soup with Italian bacon and focaccia bread (£4.60) is one dish that does itself justice. A real rustic affair with chunks of potato and a thin, salty consistency that’s akin to a warm chicken noodle soup that your mum would serve when you were feeling under the weather. Unfortunately, the bacon struggles to make an impact but otherwise it’s a perfectly pleasant precursor. Rings of deep fried calamari (£5.95), on the other hand, are a less enticing option. Served with a squeeze of lemon and a little salad, it makes for pretty ordinary stuff and could really do with a sauce to liven it up. As it stands, it’s a rather sparse and sorry looking plate of crispy batter.

With no pizzas and a pasta menu that doesn’t veer too far off the beaten track, the meat dishes seem like a good place to set up shop. Ten ounce rib steak (£14.95) is the most expensive of the six on offer and a little overpriced, it has to be said. Nevertheless, it’s chargrilled to a perfect medium as requested, the accompanying rosemary potatoes are rich and sultry and the pepolata sauce – comprised of grilled pepper, anchovy and garlic – does the dish a great service and it’s no surprise to see a bottled variety on offer in the delicatessen. Veal always divides opinion but even those who have reservations about this contentious, delicate meat might warm to the braised shin (£13.95) on offer at Carluccios. It’s served with a saffron risotto that exudes flavour and eschews stodginess whilst the tomato sauce really makes a mark, adding a shrewd sweetness to all component parts without ever becoming overbearing.

For dessert, chocolate bread and butter pudding (£4.95) is a real treat. It’s a warm, comforting creamy delight on a cold winter’s night so forget the fact that it’s an English classic and dive in. Gelati ice cream (£3.75) – Carluccios authentic ice cream – whilst serviceable and sufficient doesn’t quite live up to its billing. Strawberry and bitter chocolate make for a nice sweet and sour combination but it doesn’t taste particularly homemade and the Carluccios wafer, whilst inscribed with the restaurants calligraphic lettering, is nothing more than customary.

The Drink
Wines are reasonably priced both in the white corner and in the red corner with prices starting from about £13 by the bottle and £4 by the glass. The Sicilian Sicani Bianco (£12.95) is a home banker, deft and delicate, it complements rather than disrupts some of the stronger flavours conjured by the food. There are also a couple of roses available at £17.50 and £21.50, a Tuscan dessert wine for £20, served with cantucci biscuits, the proverbial Peroni Nastro Azzurro beer at £3.50 a pop, cappuccino (£2.15), espresso (£1.70) and limoncello (£4.50).

The Last Word
This latest notch on Carluccios’ belt buckle is testament to the longevity of the chain. The format may be overly familiar but you can’t question the hospitality of Carluccios Caffes which always seem to charm and captivate their customers. Sometimes it’s the simple things in life that go the longest way.

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