23 Connaught Street,
Bayswater,
London,
W2 2AY
(020) 7402 1988
The ViewLondon Review
With a chef who’s worked at El Bulli, and a restaurateur who was behind Santa Maria del Sur and Garufa, Casa Malevo boasts some impressive pedigree as it aims to bring a slice of Argentinean dining to Marylebone.
The Venue
Tucked away down Connaught Street and a mere stroll from Marble Arch, Casa Malevo sits in superb company, with its welcoming glass frontage looking out over Jimmy Choo’s, Cocomayer and some very nice town houses with impossibly high ceilings. A couple of small tables and wicker chairs sit al fresco but inside is the place to be, where a sophisticated take on Argentinean authenticity awaits. Exposed brickwork, a distressed pine dresser and pictures from Patagonia bring a rustic feel to a restaurant that’s certainly refined enough for the area, with polished wooden flooring, swathes of black and sweeping lines keeping things nice and chic. The small downstairs area is stunning, with one huge butchers block of a table surrounded by more exposed brickwork, hundreds of bottles of wine, little alcoves and files, suggesting perhaps this is where the staff get to sit. The lucky lot.
The Atmosphere
If the guys behind Casa Malevo were aiming to recreate the kind of relaxed and informal neighbourhood restaurants of their homeland then they succeeded. Casa Malevo is full of groups of friends grabbing a bottle of wine, ordering tapas and settling down for an unhurried catch up, which seems entirely in keeping with both the setting and the general ambience. They’re joined by friends of the staff, couples, groups of Argentineans looking for a taste of home and a quite remarkable number of those enticed in after walking by – proof that it looks like a very welcoming venue indeed.
The Food
It’s Argentinean all the way, with regional specialities sitting next to a solid selection of steaks imported all the way from Argentina itself. It’s all very impressively priced, not least for the area, but this perhaps explains why some of the dishes don’t quite live up to expectations.
Starters are tasty, with the Provoleta (£4.50), a huge plate of delicious, grilled Provolone cheese served with roasted tomatoes, oregano and olive oil. This authentic favourite is faithfully done, and tastes good, but it’s very shy on the tomatoes, with three little halves leaving you feeling a little short changed. The sweetbreads (£6.50) are faultless though, with good quality offal grilled to a smoky finish and served with spring onions and grilled lemon.
There’s a good selection of steaks available for the main course, all imported from Argentina. They’re well priced, with a 225g bife de chorizo (sirloin) coming in at £15.50, and there’s clear expertise in the kitchen as they’re cooked exactly to order, with a char-grilled edge giving way to a beautifully even pink flesh. It’s just such a shame that this particular example is a little tough. The accompanying hand cut chips (£3) are very good though. The fish of the day, a red snapper grilled and served whole is very impressive, with perfectly flaking flesh inside an, again, deliciously smoky, char-grilled exterior. The tomato, onion and basil salad (£3.50) is adequate, yet not exactly difficult to do.
Desserts are very good, with the highlight being a dulce de leche (milk caramel) crème brulee (£5.50) with just the right amount of crunch giving way to a rich, sweet cream. It’s served with a very impressive banana split ice cream that’s incredibly moreish, and works well with the creamy crunch of the brulee.
The Drinks
There’s an impressive wine list that keeps things very authentic indeed, with plenty of regional Argentinean bins that will keep even the most pretentious enthusiast more than happy. Many options are served by the glass, and all but a few served by the 375ml carafe, offering plenty of scope to try a couple. One that’s certainly worth trying is the pinot noir from the small, but highly respected Alamos vineyard. At £15 for a carafe or £28.50 for the bottle, it’s a great soft, sweet and fruity option that complements many of the dishes.
The Last Word
A really great little neighbourhood restaurant, Casa Malevo is the kind of place that’s perfect for long lunches and relaxed dining. It’s just a shame not all the dishes are as good as you might expect.
Casa Malevo has been reviewed by 4 users