Going head-to-head with Heston Blumenthal is certainly a brave move, and with Chabrot Bistrot d’Amis has setting up shop opposite Dinner, it appears up for the challenge. But is it good enough?

The Venue
Knightsbridge is the playground of the rich and famous at the best of times, and Chabrot Bistrot d’Amis hasn’t baulked at opening opposite some of the best hotels in the capital. As such, it always has to raise its game to keep up with the Joneses. And so, it’s perhaps surprising – and indeed pleasing – to see that Chabrot has left the overt glamour to the big boys of Knightsbridge and has instead gone for French charm, sticking to a classic bistro theme. Inside, little tables sit closely together, packed in, perhaps, but prettily presented with dark wooden chairs and red and white tablecloths. Alternatively, you can sit up on a high stool against a long ledge that runs across one wall, beneath a huge mirror where the specials of the day are displayed. Otherwise, the cream and red walls are interspersed with exposed brick (yes, in Knightsbridge...) and lit by large bubble lights. It may be on the small side but it’s very cute and makes a nice change from all the chandeliers, marble and twinkling lights that cover most of this area of London.

The Atmosphere
Although Chabrot is a charming little eatery by Knightsbridge standards, it still caters to the crowd that dominates the area and, as such, they have raised their game on the staffing front with incredibly attentive service. And yes, the clientele has a skew towards rich business types, young groups of friends making the most of their daddies' credit card and well to do couples alongside the occasional tourist. It’s a little cramped at times, perhaps, but it does have a warmth that is so often missing from restaurants in this neck of the woods.

The Food
The food at Chabrot is rustic French food for the soul, and although you’re looking at around £100 for a meal for two (including wine), you can have a set lunch menu for under £20. And if you just want to come in for dinner then you can order the dish of the day for around £15, which is far from extortionate for Knightsbridge.

For starters, the stand-out dish has to be the duck liver pâté with Comte gougere. The gougere, in case you are wondering, is basically a huge Yorkshire pudding made from light, airy batter with a deep, cheesy flavour courtesy of the Comte. It’s certainly not the soggy offering you’ll have eaten with your roast dinner as a kid. And the pâté? Served warm, it has a deep, creamy and meaty flavour with a slight sweetness that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.

For your main course, the good old steak and chips is a revelation. The French know how to prepare meat and this is perfectly showcased here. Cooked perfectly to specification, you don't need - or in fact receive - a steak knife, which is always a good sign. It’s an excellent cut of meat, which is hardly surprising given that it comes from those respected artisan butchers, O’Sheas.

Also excellent, and something of a speciality on the menu, is their stuffed cabbage leaf. Sound dull? Not when the filling is made up of veal, foie gras and chestnuts. Yes, it may be an homage to cruel meats, but it does taste incredible. The richness of the meat is overwhelming but when mixed with the cabbage and chestnuts, it’s given a lightness that impresses given the heaviness of the overall flavour combination. It’s the perfect example of a dish balanced to make the most of every ingredient.

The Drink
The wine list is surprisingly succinct with an almost entirely French selection including some unusual regions and grape combinations that you won’t usually find in London restaurants. Now is your chance to get inventive – ask the staff and they will be able to recommend the best bottles, such is their knowledge of their produce.

The Last Word
A breath of fresh air for Knightsbridge. When you’re fed up with pomp and expensive ceremony, Chabrot Bistrot d’Amis is the answer.

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