Along the cobbled avenues of Leadenhall Market, you'll find some of the best shopping and finest dining in all of London. It seems only fitting then, that a restaurant as good as Chamberlain's would make its home there.

The Venue
Comprised of three main floors (and some other areas for private functions) Chamberlain's makes for a refreshing change to some of London's cosier restaurants. There's a funky subterranean bar decked out in exposed red brick and dazzling blue neon; a great spot to grab a drink after work, or a day of shopping. Here you can dine from a decidedly more pub-like menu that features seasonal offerings worthy of their own review. Yet, the main dining room and the mezzanine that overlooks it are the true stars of the show. The rustic, maritime décor and high, pipework-lined ceiling can lend itself to being a bit light on ambiance, but the classically appointed tables, Robert Welch silverware, large leather chairs and artisan glass adornments more than make up for that. Once you factor in the soothing earth tones, candlelight and the view of Leadenhall (especially in summer, when the restaurant extends into alfresco dining), it's really quite pleasing.

The Atmosphere
With three floors to choose from, Chamberlain's might come off as a bit vast and aloof, and indeed that would be true if not for the impressive staff who represent it. From the moment you enter the door, you are treated with the respect and humility that is often only ever afforded to fine dining patrons. Courteous, cheerful, conversant and convivial, the staff (from managers to servers and beyond) have what it takes to make a great dining experience extraordinary. This is no small achievement when you realise that they handle well over a hundred people a day in the short time that comprises the business lunch hour. Go there then and Chamberlain's is a bustling monument to efficiency, where the food, service and showmanship are carefully orchestrated amongst the three fully packed floors, all to the complete satisfaction of its numerous patrons. For a calmer, more serene setting, you might try Chamberlain's during the evening, where the volume of diners is significantly lower, leaving room to truly enjoy the restaurant's many virtues. During these hours, the business crowd is the minority and the room surrenders itself to food lovers and romantics alike.

The Food
With an Executive Chef like Matthew Marshall, you know the food will be a treat. Having trained in some of the world's finest restaurants, at the hands of some of its most award winning chefs, Marshall truly understands what constitutes exceptional food. Working with seafood provided predominately by the parent company (Chamberlain and Thelwell Seafood), the kitchen is afforded the ability to present some of the freshest, highest quality seafood available in London. Likewise, using the same butcher as the Royal Family ensures the meats and poultry will be fit for... well... a queen. The quality ingredients come at a premium which becomes apparent the moment you glance at the menu. Simply put, nothing about Chamberlain's is common, including its prices.

Still, when the waiter delivers your hand-dived scallops and foie gras starter (£15.50), you're eyes will start tasting before your palate gets the chance. The scallops, pan fried to a golden brown, fresh and succulent, are accompanied by a slice of seared foie gras that simply couldn't be more perfect. The hazelnut dressing adds a wonderful texture to the dish as the nuts jump in at the finish to round out the flavours. The sautéed wild mushrooms on brioche provides light, but full flavours. There's nothing muddled or unbalanced here, even the truffle jus manages to know its place and resists the urge to overpower. The Irish oysters (4 for £10) hail from Bell Island and taste like fresh sea air. They are the ideal size and have a great firm texture. Unfortunately, that texture is sometimes disturbed by the more than random tiny shell fragments, which could lead to some disappointment.

When it comes to mains, the tranche of turbot is a triumph (£36.00) and is fast becoming a signature dish. The flavour of the fish is subtle until it is paired with the accompanying puy lentil purée, roasted salsify, seared scallop, and hints of rosemary, at which point it springs to life and takes on new dimension. The turbot's caramelised skin is a guilty pleasure, but not one to miss. The Cornish monkfish with tiger prawn (£24.95) gets high marks for presentation. Perfect grill marks on a conservative portion of monkfish is no small feat and the tiger prawn looks delicious. Unfortunately it's dry and overcooked, becoming a distraction on what is otherwise a good dish. One couldn't help but wonder if a nice chunk of lobster or some crab meat wouldn't have taken the dish further. The pancetta, chickpea and clam fondue surrounding the fish could have offered some bolder flavours without taking anything away from the fish, but decides to play it safe instead. The vegetable sides are pleasant, especially the cauliflower with cheese, which may well be the best example of this dish you'll ever have.

Desserts are well thought out, expertly prepared and delicious. The trio of chocolate mousse with peanut crisp (£7.50) proves that the kitchen takes its puddings seriously. The dark chocolate mousse is thick and fudge-like, topped with crispy chopped peanuts and could easily be a success on its own. The white chocolate mousse is served frozen and is so smooth, creamy and decadent you'll probably giggle like a schoolgirl. But, it is the milk chocolate that steals the show. It's not what comes to mind when most people think mousse; instead, it's more like someone scooped the bubbles off a large glass of chocolate milk, stabilised them and then served them in a small cup. The flavour is more like caramel than chocolate, the texture light as air and the technique, flawless.

The Drink
When a restaurant puts as much thought into its food and service as Chamberlain's does, you'd expect the wine list to be exceptional, and it doesn't disappoint. Senior members of staff could hold their own against some of London's finest sommeliers. It comes as no surprise then that the by-the-bottle list is impressive, well thought out and quite diverse. There's something for every taste and wallet here and if you're feeling a little over your head, the manager will gladly make suggestions. By-the-glass wines are not quite as dramatic, but the Domaine Fouassier Sancerre les Romains pairs very nicely with the oysters, as its long finish sweeps the palate clean in preparation for the next raw gem. Likewise, the Ginestet Classic Sauterne, with its fruity flavours and luxurious feel plays wonderfully with the scallops and foie gras. Honourable mention goes to the Nyetimber Cuveé from West Sussex (£9.95 per 125 ml) whose golden straw colour and sweet fruit notes make it a remarkably drinkable sparkling wine. It opens up nicely as it loses its chill, although it forfeits its prosecco-like qualities as it does so. In addition to wine, you'll find all the traditional beverages associated with a restaurant bar, including cognacs, brandies, ports, and liqueurs. They also make a pretty decent espresso to go with dessert.

The Last Word
Chamberlain's does dining the way it was meant to be, with attention to detail, the best ingredients available, and a staff that not only know what fine dining means, but are committed to the concept. Of course, there's room for improvement, but for restaurants of this calibre the bar is already set well above average. If you are willing to pay the price (roughly £90-£100 a head) you'll get a great meal, some excellent drink, extraordinary service and a memory worth keeping. It's restaurants like Chamberlain's that make dining out something worth doing.

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