Like a good book that you can’t put down the Chapters chain has turned the page installing its second restaurant in the idyllic bosom of Montpelier Vale in Blackheath Village. And after the success of Farnborough’s very own Michelin starred restaurant Chapter One, Chapters All Day Dining is an eatery that has clearly hit the ground running, exuding excellence, efficiency and professionalism.

The Venue
It’s no coincidence that the adjacent road is called Tranquil Vale – this is as far removed from the hustle and bustle of London as you’re likely to get. Blackheath Village is a charming little community on a perfectly poised pastoral backdrop. Chapters itself overlooks a large oak tree standing elegantly on a chiseled piece of greenway with a courtly church across the way. The interior is pure, stripped back minimalism and exemplifies the modern proficiency that the restaurant embodies. Brimming with neutral opulence, Chapters is rife with low, candle-lit lighting, fluorescent winding staircases, prominent mirrors and a cylindrical lighting arrangement. It’s all polished blacks, wooden floors and silver hues.

The only misgiving lies with the size of the tables – or lack of so to speak. Intricately formatted to please the romantics perhaps but there’s simply not enough space to manoeuver and it feels as though you’re about to embark on a round of speed dating or a game of professional chess. Even the tablecloths hang slightly off the edge of the table practically negating the need for a serviette to cover one’s lap. That said, it’s a minor quibble in what is a cleverly crafted, spatially aware dining room devoid of the unnecessary clutter that plagues many a restaurant.

The Atmosphere
There’s a nonchalant air of ease that flutters effortlessly through the Chapters chambers and this shouldn’t be mistaken for a lack of atmosphere. It simply caters for and is indicative of the restaurant’s clientele. It’s fair to say that the average Chapters customer is over the age of 40 and has a reasonably well-endowed bank balance. It’s a little chic and polished for children and at roughly £45 a head for a three course meal with drinks it’s arguably a little pricey for the average family. But for the discerning palates of the Blackheath Village brigade and stray young professionals with a bit of cash to burn, the hands off, low key hush that Chapters inhabits is perfect for a pleasant and sophisticated evening. Waiters are polite and attentive without being overbearing and there’s no music so you can hold a conversation without taxing your tonsils.

The Food
The Chapters dinner menu is an eclectically assembled assortment of European cuisine borrowing elements from the French, Italian and Spanish among others whilst retaining a small number of English classics including English asparagus, fish and chips and apple and rhubarb crumble.

Prices for starters are variable and range from £4.25 for soup of the day to £9.95 for baked scallops and chorizo with a sweet chilli dressing and a baby herb salad. The latter sounds like a humdinger on paper but fails to live up to expectation. The scallops – which have been gently and pleasantly seared – are served in a shell on a bed of sea salt and sprinkled with sesame seeds. But regrettably, the chorizo has been diced into minute cubes and has a tough, leathery texture that nullifies its flavour. Moreover, the sweet chilli dressing – comprised of a renowned Moroccan sauce and rose petals - is overpowering and rather like an uninvited, over-zealous guest at a dinner party, smothers its more refined, delicate ingredients into submission. Risotto of natural smoked haddock with jersey cream, spring peas, chives and a hint of mascarpone cheese is a much better bet at £5.95. It’s no oil painting (rice pudding comes to mind) and the portion looks small at first sight but it’s a scrumptious slow burner and at almost half the price, it puts the scallops and chorizo in the shade. Warm, cheesy, creamy – it’s perfect comfort food for a chilly winters evening and though unremarkable at face value, it’s deeply satisfying.

Main courses are split into two sub sections. Proving that a dash of Indian cuisine is not beyond Chapters’ culinary arsenal there’s grilled swordfish, cauliflower and potato masala, grilled flat bread and raita priced at £12.50 and fish of the day which is sold at market price. But standing boldly like an Adonis at the top of the menu is the slow roast belly of middle white pork, cassoulet of white beans and morteau fume sausage (£12.50). Immediately putting your nostrils on red alert with a heavenly, char-grilled infused scent that will have you salivating before the plate has even hit the table, it’s a wonderful blend of ingredients – a joyous fusion of flavours that are allowed to speak for themselves. The sausages and beans perform the job of the worker bees - undervalued, core components in their essence and yet living only to serve their queen. And in this case, the pork belly is worthy of its crown. Again subscribing to the wholesome, wintry premise established by the risotto – it’s a perfectly crafted dish, delectably tender pork with crackling – one of life’s greatest guilty pleasures.

The second half of the main menu falls under the category of meat dishes served from the josper – a gargantuan behemoth of an oven made in Spain and specially imported from Argentina. With temperatures soaring more than 300 degrees, it’s an impressive beast that relies on the instalment of heat extraction devices and uses no gas or electricity instead utilising the heat created by the charcoal. Indeed, there’s something rather primitive and prehistoric about it and it’s undoubtedly the showpiece element on the menu. The char grilled tang brewing from its charcoal embers permeates through the entire restaurant. Hanger steaks are available for £10.95, Australian rib eyes at £18.95 and the grand daddy Black Angus 200g fillet is on offer at £22.95. Such is the intense heat created by the josper – don’t be surprised if a rare steak looks medium and a medium looks well done. The proof is in the pudding and there’s no doubting the quality of the meat. At close to £25 the fillet is worthy of treat status but it’s worth trying anything from the josper and those who’ve sampled delicious steaks in South America may well feel as though they’re back on their travels.

Desserts are more predictable and more evenly priced ranging from a selection of sorbets at £3.95 to a selection of Artisan cheeses with bread and chutney at a little under £7. Baked cheesecake with strawberry sorbet is a safe bet at £4.95. With its creme brulet style glazing on top it’s light and fluffy and its sweetness is perfectly offset by the sour strawberry ice cream. There’s also a monstrously gluttonous warm chocolate brownie sundae (£5.50) served with caramelized hazelnuts. Deep, rich and gooey – it’s excessive to say the least and not the wisest choice should you intend to order three courses from this lavish and deeply filling menu.

Chapters also serves a reasonably priced breakfast weekdays 8am – 11.30am and weekends until midday offering a range of free range egg dishes (ranging from scrambled with toast at £3.50 to Benedict at £5.50), an American style breakfast (pancakes with bacon and maple syrup for £4.95) and a continental for slightly less.

The Drink
There’s an ocean of wine choices on offer at Chapters, which cater for its affluent, knowledgeable customers. Joe public can order a bottle of chenin blanc, Hazy View 2008 from South Africa or a cabernet sauvignon, Tierra Antica 2008 from Chile for £14.95 a bottle, which is well worth it when you consider a glass costs £5.50. Otherwise, whites range from £16 to £42 and reds form £15.95 to £43. There’s also a selection of fine wines, priced to £72 for whites and £70 for reds. Champagnes are served at £34 upwards culminating in the effervescent Dom Perignon at £145 for those who really want to push the boat out. It’s also worth eyeing up the dessert wines for an after dinner nightcap though a glass is likely to set you back at least £6 – and that’s for the cheapest. Cocktails are similarly pricey and hover around the £8 mark. And if you’ve decided to skip dessert, why not go for a smoothie or milkshake of the day, which are advertised on the blackboard and are likely to be a little cheaper.

The Last Word
Chapters All Day Dining already seems like a restaurant in cruise control and a worthy brother to the Michelin starred Chapter One. Chic, sophisticated and steadfast in its approach to comfortable dining it’s definitely worth a visit for a special occasion. And try something from the josper – you might not get the chance again.

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