Cheminee Persian Restaurant’s trademark is their authentically cooked Persian bread but the rest of their vast Persian menu is equally worth a try.

The Venue
Tucked away on a quiet street in Paddington, Cheminee Persian Restaurant doesn’t look anything special at all – especially given the number of Middle Eastern restaurants to be found on nearby Edgware Road. A quick look at Cheminee’s signage reveals otherwise, though, as they are one of extremely few restaurants in the country, let alone London, to make authentic Persian bread cooked in a traditional Persian oven – and they do it right in front of you.

The Atmosphere
The restaurant has something of a cafe feel to it – there’s certainly no glamour to be had. But glamour isn’t what it’s about. The restaurant is small, friendly and painstakingly authentic and within these parameters is actually quite decorative - elaborate paintings adorn the walls and patterned cushions cover the chairs conjuring the feeling of a humble roadside cafe in the Middle East where locals come to relax and recount the day’s woes over a mint tea or two. Staff are hugely friendly and welcoming, happy to explain the vast menu but equally happy to wait whilst choices are made, changed and then made again.

The Food
An extensive menu shows off the diversity of Persian cuisine, incorporating flavours and techniques known from Lebanese cuisine with more exotic flavours from the Far East and Asia. Their specialty is their homemade bread, cooked in front of you by the staff – so elaborate is the procedure that it’s like a dinner and show in one. They first take a ball of dough and roll it out on a specially designated cushion before running a spiked roller over it to create holes, which lets the air out and prevents the bread swelling when cooking. They then splash the dough with water and hurl it into the large metal oven from the cushion. A couple of minutes later and they fish it out of the oven with tongs, cut it up and serve it whilst still hot.

Along with the Persian bread (£1.50 per piece), mezze-style starters include a tahini-rich, creamy hummus (£4.30); large green olives with a spicy mango dressing (£3.50) which combine sweet, spicy and salty flavours; a smoky babaghanoush (£4.30) with whole chunks of aubergine; and a particularly delicious mirza-ghassemi (£4.30) which apparently mixes aubergines, garlic, tomato, onion and eggs. The result is a fine dish similar to a ratatouille, ideal for eating with the Persian bread, but strangely, upon serving there is no sign of the egg.

From the many main course options, the mixed grill (£13.50) is an easy choice as it incorporates many of the other dishes. A skewered selection includes a kofta of minced lamb which is juicy and spiced with paprika, tender chicken pieces with a mild spice rub, and slices of lamb fillet which have an incredible flavour but are slightly over-cooked and on the chewy side. The grill comes with salad and more of the bread. A contrasting dish from the stews section of the menu, khoresh-e-ghemieh baadenjan (£7.80) is a lamb stew (though a vegetarian option is available) with yellow split peas, onions and dried lime – a warmly spiced, comforting dish which shows the diversity of Persian flavours. It also comes with salad and Persian rice, which is topped with plump dried barberries for a fruity flourish.

For dessert there is less choice but the dishes are just as interesting. Bastani (£3.50) is a rich Persian ice cream made with double cream studded with pistachios and flavoured with saffron. Paaloodeh (£3.50), though, is where it gets very interesting. This sorbet consists of thin iced noodles in a lemony syrup and is delicious and refreshing as they are peculiar.

The Drink
Wine isn’t what the restaurant is really about and the selection is small if from diverse sections of the world. Sadly, though, none of the wine is from the Middle East. The house red, which is French, is fairly well bodied and peppery, though – an ideal match for the food and an absolute bargain at £11.50 a bottle. A more traditional option is doogh (£1.90), a yoghurt drink with a (slightly disconcerting) effervescence, a fair bit of salt and a sprinkling of dried mint. Tasty to a point but finishing the glass is a challenge, let alone ordering a large one. A more refreshing end to a meal is a pot of fresh Persian mint or lemon tea (both £1.80).

The Last Word
The name lets you know exactly what you’re in for at Cheminee Persian Restaurant and is probably a better guide than the slightly grotty exterior. What the name doesn’t give you, though, is an idea of just how good the food is, or indeed the show you’re in for when they cook the bread.

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