Chez Gerard, Mayfair is putting the phwoah back in foie gras and treating the esteemed residents of W1 to some fine French fare at investment-saving prices.

The Venue
Chez Gerard sits comfortably amongst the fancy establishments of Dover Street, moments from The Ritz on Piccadilly and Green Park. Despite the fierce competition, the bustling trade on this Saturday night proves that this Parisian-esque brasserie is holding its own in Mayfair. The discreet signage gives way to a labyrinth of dining rooms, each area offering its own version of intimacy. The main room and all its annexes have bruised plum walls decorated with black and white images of old France and low-level booths alongside traditional mahogany tables. Upstairs there is a more modern mezzanine level and down below a beautiful private room for 15 or less, dressed in the decor of a rustic Dordogne farmhouse.

The Atmosphere
Despite the swanky Mayfair address the service is swift and personable. Saturday night's trade is buzzing with a mix of central London residents, tourists smug in the fact they've found a gem and regular visitors to this part of the capital. The tone is aloft with genial chitchat and the chink of satisfied cutlery on cleaned plates.

The Food
At Chez Gerard you can come back time after time, happy in the knowledge that whatever your palate desires will be catered for. From snails to foie gras, canard to Camembert, all Gallic angles are sensibly covered. Entrees like crab gratin are always a good bet; rich, creamy with a delicious fibrous texture, this is definitely one to savour by yourself. The baked Camembert, however is more of a sharer. Full of unctuous glory, bread sticks, chicory leaves and celery are mere vehicles for this warm, earthy goo and will have you fighting for the last smear.

Main courses are equally as appealing. Chez Gerard is famed for their steak-frites and offers a wide selection from the soft, raw fillet of steak tartare (served with chips!) to the mighty Chateaubriand, carved at the table and served with thin, crispy pomme frites and a Bearnaise sauce. Feather steak is one of the cheaper options, but is by no means inferior and offers a more intense, beefy flavour. For a real treat try the famed Wagyu beef. Chez Gerard offers a 9oz cut of the world's most tender and succulent beef steak at a surprisingly reasonable price of £27.50. From the rest of the menu, you could go authentic Francais and opt for the heavenly Boeuf Bourguignon. Served in its own copper saucepan, this rich, wine-infused meat stew is filled with salty lardons and soft sweet shallots, is perfect for a dark winter's night and should really be served in the comfort of your own bed.

A range of fish options including the fresh Sea Bass with cherry tomato butter and grilled courgettes, are well-prepared and delicious, but without the wow-factor of the meatier dishes. The pancake filled with lobster, prawns and crab in a lobster and brandy sauce is a rich and decadent choice, but the generous portions and rich, rich sauce make it overtly so. Desserts on the other hand are real show-stoppers. The chocolate fondant comes as a soft, squidgy plump of a pie which oozes with a warm chocolate sauce and is served with vanilla pod ice cream and black cherry compote. The tarte tatin again is a real treat. Served hot from the oven in a copper-based pan with creme fraiche, is so crammed with caramel-coated apples it should count towards one of your five a day.

The Drink
The usual aperitifs are all available, Kir, Kir Royale and a very decent G&T. For a more sparkly affair, the Champagne cocktails at £7.50 a go are the perfect way to kick off a meal. On the whole the wine list offers decent quality at reasonable prices. There are a few treats, such as a spicy Croze Hermitage for £27 or a white Puligly Montrachet for £62 a pop. At the leaner end of the list, the white Sauvignon Blanc is a steal at £15.95 a bottle, with fresh, crisp flavours and the dry smack of a good Vin D'Pays.

The Last Word
For decent, down-to-earth French food you can rarely go wrong with a branch of Chez Gerard and the Dover Street venue is even more of a treat because of its glamorous Mayfair location. So for treating out-of-towners, it's well worth a visit.

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