There has been a throng of half-decent restaurants popping up in Waterloo over the past couple of years. This branch of Chez Gerard ranks as one of the highlights and is ideal for a pre-commute supper or more.

The Venue
In the shadows of the Royal Festival Hall sits the polite and discreet Chez Gerard looking more like a boutique hotel than a French restaurant. The lobby is a stark teak affair with stairs that descend into an open dining room. Warm tobacco-coloured leather banquettes stretch along one side and similarly coloured booths, which do a good impression of a first class train carriage, gather down the other. A long polished bar is a shiny focal point and embellished ferns dot the room bringing colour to the monochromed interior. The lightly checked paper tablecloths are the only hint of mass production and somewhat spoils the otherwise tasteful decor.

The Atmosphere
Chez Gerard's proximity to Waterloo station guarantees business every night of the week and this becomes apparent in its varied clientele. The atmosphere is decidedly sparky with a good mix of businessmen braying over a Chateaubriand and a bottle of Merlot, to groups of friends meeting and eating before heading off separately into the depths of commuter-ville. The aforementioned booths offer discreet and cosy eating and are ideal for that clandestine meeting or a romantic affair. Chez Gerard is special enough for a first date, without being too pretentious or snooty. The staff are friendly, they certainly know their cuisine and will give you just the right amount of attention to make sure you are happy and never without a drink.

The Food
Olives, nuts and fresh French bread served with a piquant anchovy butter are very welcome nibbles, allowing important time to graze whilst mulling over the extensive and well, very French menu. Entrees include fresh oysters served with a shallot vinegar, snails in garlic butter and an absolutely divine crab thermidor. The scallops come highly recommended; warm, fat discs of this delicately flavoured shellfish work well with the herby pine-nut dressing. For the main course, the Grillade De Boeuf is a carnivores heaven with a variety of cuts available, some familiar, others, such as the Onglet, are more obscure. The medium rare rib-eye comes slightly charred with a raspberry pink centre, the accompanying crispy French fries and a dreamy bearnaise sauce makes a meal which is all good for the soul (if not for the heart).

For the less blood-thirsty there is a decent fish selection with the roasted cod fillet being as thick and meaty as any bovine rump. Other over-the-channel offerings include boeuf bourguignon and Hamburger Rossini, a prime beefburger topped with a pan-fried foie gras. For dessert, the teeny tiny creme brulee is delicious and just enough to sate a sweet tooth, unlike the warm and almondy Poire Bourdaloue, which is plentiful and wonderful in equal parts. As a finale the French cheese selection is cleverly available by the individual portion, which even the fullest of bellies can manage.

The Drink
Being a restaurant of the Gallic variety there is an impressive amount of decent vino on the list. Not all French, there is a notable Rioja and some Australian full-bodies are gallantly allowed to join. The house wine is very reasonable at about £14.00 a bottle although there are plenty of more superior wines for an extra few quid which will make a real difference to your evening. Half bottles of special wines such as Sancerre or Bourgogne Pinot Noir are a nice touch and make for an inexpensive treat.

The Last Word
Chez Gerard is a most unchain-like chain of French restaurants and this branch on the bustling South Bank is an exceptional example. Recommended.

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