Or should that be Chilli Hot? As Szechuan cooking starts to become ever-more trendy in the capital, step forward Chilli Cool - an independent restaurant that takes nose-to-tail dining seriously (homemade pig’s intestine, anyone?). It’s the Tayabbs of the Chinese world.

The Venue
Located between King's Cross and Russell Square, Chilli Cool doesn’t look like much from the outset. A bright yellow sign hangs from the side of the building, somewhat cheapening the look, and inside it's divided in two, with two doorways and two kitchens. One produces the hotpots and starters and the other concentrates on the main courses. A rather strange set-up but one that allows them to produce a lot of dishes quickly. Otherwise, the tables and chairs are simple, wooden affairs but clean and well tended. There’s also a small conservatory area to the back. Overall, the neutral decor in white works well to temper the red faces of the diners, happily stuffing in mouthfuls of chilli.

The Atmosphere
Chilli Cool attracts a lot of Chinese students from the nearby UCL – and that’s to its credit. Nothing screams authenticity more. Mix that with in-the-know Londoners (although this is decreasingly the case as more high profile newspapers review this place), and it makes for an oft-busy venue full with an eclectic mix of people looking for quality grub at good prices. The staff are enthusiastic and seem to be pleased if you opt for their more ‘challenging’ dishes... more of that to come, though.

The Food
Be prepared to sweat. A lot. They have two heats here: blow your head off hot and numb your mouth for two days hot. However, it’s all done within a context of clever seasoning and use of authentic Szechuan spices that linger in the mouth and only highlight the ingredients of the dishes rather than disguise them. You certainly have to have a strong stomach to read the whole menu, which includes options like hot and spicy pig's feet, sliced pig’s ears in sesame oil, fried beef tripe with red and green chop chilli or homemade pig's intestine with rice. Nose-to-tail dining, indeed. However, if this is a gastronomic challenge too far, there are plenty of more ‘normal’ options. Just be aware that when ordering starters and mains, they come when they come and you’ll be tucking in as soon as the kitchen can get them to you. This is typical of this type of cuisine and it has such a sharing nature that it doesn’t matter. Order lots of dishes and get tucking in.

If you want to try the more offal-tastic dishes but are wary, then a starter of cold sliced pork belly with mashed garlic sauce (£6) is well worth a try. The thin slices of soft, fatty pork are surprisingly light with a flavour similar to bacon, and are sat in chilli oil to give it a strong heat that gets your palate used to the spiciness of Szechuan cooking. Move on to a big bowl of sea spicy shredded pork (£6.80), and you'll enjoy a real example of what this kitchen can do. Bringing together incredibly complex seasoning so you get a hit of sweet, sour and heat in each mouthful, complete with an undertone of fishy saltiness, it’s a real lesson in cooking. The pork is tender and really does melt in the mouth, with bamboo shoots adding texture. Incredible for the price. This all pales in comparison to the fish hotpot, however. Lots of white fish of an unknown origin is light, plump and flavoursome. It comes in a bowl so big you won’t have room on your table for much else and is filled with hot chillis, chilli oil, some more chillis and plump tofu in a perfectly seasoned stock. Excellent value for £15.80 for a dish that's more than enough for two.

The Drink
You’re going to get through a lot of water at Chilli Cool. However, they do have some drink on offer, too. There are two beers – Tiger and Tsing Tao – well chosen to complement the cuisine. Alternatively, a couple of wines are well priced from under a tenner to barely £15. So far, so dull. Where the menu really impresses is with their selection of Chinese liqueurs. Wu Liang Ye, Mao Tai, Jiu Gui, Jian Nan Chun and Er Guo Tou. No, never heard of them, either, but it's a nice touch.

The Last Word
Chilli Cool is one of those places that you have to add to your ‘must visit’ list, even if you can’t face trying the intestines for dinner.

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