Tucked away in Camden Market, beside the market stalls and boats, is a very modern laboratory that produces low fat ice cream.

The Venue
Imagine an ice cream parlour: rows upon rows of multi-coloured ice cream and a choice of cones … This isn’t like that. This is a 21st century experience, a cross between a science lab and something out of Willy Wonka and a lot of fun. Chin Chin Laboratorists is Europe’s first liquid nitrogen ice cream parlour and it’s well worth a visit.

The Atmosphere
When you walk in you’re greeted by the owners, wearing protective goggles, gloves and lab coats. Behind them are vats of liquid nitrogen under steel beams. Liquid nitrogen boils at -196 C, hence all the protective gear which adds to the feeling that this is an experience – not just a purchase.

The Food
So, how does it work? First pick your flavour – the ice cream is made up to order. Flavours available include chocolate, vanilla and basil but these rotate weekly. Each has a creme anglais made up in its flavour – i.e. just a liquidy custard – nothing like ice cream.

Then the science. Liquid nitrogen pours from a vat through a tap into a metal bowl – it bubbles fiercely and looks terrifying. Then the clever bit. What looks like a conventional mixer (but chunkier) has a bit of the relevant creme anglais poured in and as the mixer turns, the liquid nitrogen is poured in. It looks a bit like dry ice and you can’t help but be entertained by the ensuing mist that pours across the work bench. Within half a minute the ice cream is scooped into a tub and there you have it.

Even more clever – this ice cream has half the sugar and fat of conventional ice cream. But clearly it doesn’t matter how clever it is if it doesn’t taste good, and this ice cream is really good. It doesn’t have to go in a freezer so it doesn’t have ice crystals and it’s incredibly smooth and creamy. It tastes a bit like very cold, deliciously flavoured cream. You have the choice of crunchy toppings and syrups and whilst the basil ice cream didn’t really need either, a hazelnut crunch and raspberry syrup worked surprisingly well – really sharp raspberry with smooth and flavoursome basil creamy coldness – excellent. At £3.95 for a small tub it isn’t cheap, but then it isn’t conventional ice cream and it’s worth the price.

The Drink
Drinks aren’t really the focal point at Chin Chin Laboratorists, but this is Camden, so if you’re looking for a pint or two afterwards to discuss your ice cream experience over there are plenty of options around.

The Last Word
You can’t take this ice cream away – put it in the freezer and it will get the crystals that it is designed to avoid – so you have to eat in. It is a lot of fun and well worth checking out.

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