No 1 The Boulevard,
Smugglers Way,
Wandsworth,
London,
SW18 1DE
(020) 8874 9878
The ViewLondon Review
If you fancy a change from the cramped side streets of Chinatown but take your dim sum seriously, this is the place for you.
The Venue
China Boulevard is right on the river, with far-reaching views from three sides. It’s a huge open plan room with floor to ceiling windows but has an otherwise traditional Chinese feel. If you want the full effect, go up to the mezzanine level, which has an impressive panorama day or night.
The Atmosphere
As with all good Chinese restaurants a high proportion of the clientele is Chinese. There are more families and big groups around dim sum time but at night romantic couples also come out to play. They often have private parties downstairs so if you like people watching more than river views sit on the inside of the mezzanine.
The staff are polite and efficient, but don’t expect much chitchat, the place is always busy and everyone moves about with great purpose. China Boulevard also has two private karaoke and party rooms for hire and they offer a set menu, so it’s ideal for birthdays and celebrations.
The Food
Whatever you’re in the mood for they are bound to have it, from squab to tofu to Dover sole. The main courses vary a lot in price, from £4.80 for Singapore noodles with chicken to £23 for Shaoshing native lobster with ginger and scallion. To get the appetite going the glazed diver scallops on the shell with coriander and asparagus are dainty and extravagant at £4 each. The pak choi with garlic has a perfect natural sweet and sour taste and the honey barbecue pork tenderloin is succulent, sweet and meaty, but if you want superb value for money, go for the dim sum.
The Chiu Chow peanut dumpling is soft and transparent with a rich peanut and vegetable crunchy texture. The pork Char Siu bun is out of this world, fresh, buoyant dough with a splodge of deep brown, saucy barbecued pork in the centre. The grilled turnip patty has an unusual candied flavour and is a great alternative for vegetarians because it’s dense and filling. The Cheung Fun, translated as a rice pasta roll, is like a squishy pancake with meat, prawn or veggie fillings: it’s tightly packed and melts in your mouth.
The deep fried squid are light, crispy and fresh, served with sweet chilli sauce. The chow mein noodles are thin, fried to perfection and not too oily. From the rotisserie, the Canton roast duck and soya chicken are excellent. The duck is tender and lean with just enough skin to prevent dryness. To finish, if you have any room left, the egg tarts are sweet and simple, if you’re feeling more adventurous try the chilled mango syrup. In a typical group of 4 expect to pay between £20 and £30 a head depending on what you’re drinking and you will definitely not be hungry two hours later.
The Drink
There are about 50 wines, ranging from £14 a bottle for a South African white or Spanish red to £215 for a Chateau Cheval Blanc so there is something for every budget and palate. Wines by the glass however are limited to five choices. There are, of course, Champagnes and beers and a large selection of spirits and liqueurs. For something a little less potent, try the jasmine tea that comes round periodically on the house. It’s mild and light and aids digestion.
The Last Word
This is arguably the best dim sum restaurant in South London, fabulous food in a striking setting. Quality and quantity have an even playing field here and remember, the bigger the group of people the more things you can try.
China Boulevard on the River has been reviewed by 7 users