This considerably large Chinese restaurant in the heart of Chinatown seems to epitomise all that is great about Chinese cuisine and culture.

The Venue
From the imposing exterior with its iconic golden dragon to the vast, well-lit, hugely accommodating interior, this restaurant is hard to miss. In an area, however, with such variety and choice this is welcomed. An archway divides two dining areas filled to the brim with tables of passionately hungry diners. Undeniably it has a certain dynamic canteen feel to it and does not immediately convey a sense of intimacy or warmth.

The Atmosphere
The sheer size of the restaurant falls by the wayside when it is seen at its best. Most afternoons will see hundreds of people flagging down the mobile dim-sum trolley that circles the restaurant to grab a bamboo steamer of juicy little parcels – over 100 varieties of them in fact. One can’t help but notice that such a large proportion of the clientele are Chinese, a good sign of its authenticity. The staff during busy times are never more than an arms stretch away but later on in the evening, as the ambience formalises ever so slightly and the a la carte menu is more frequently referred to, the restaurant resembles any other.

The Food
It would be a travesty not to focus on Chuen Cheng Ku’s forte, the minced pork and ginger, scallop and chive, duck, shark’s fin, prawn and coriander and char siu pork dim sum not to mention the sweet yet savoury char siu pork buns and custard buns (ranging from £2 - £4) The trolley even has a deep endless pan of bubbling broth in which to blanche noodles and vegetables to serve noodle soup with roasted meats at your table (£6). If you want to immerse yourself wholly in the foodie culture, swipe the chicken’s feet in black bean sauce and the braised tripe from the trolley. The tripe (£3) is unexpectedly wonderful, flavoursome, tender and served in a light oyster sauce and for those who can look beyond texture and reputation it will be a treat. Unfortunately the same cannot be said for the meatless, scrawny chicken’s feet (£3) – perhaps Britain isn’t quite ready for that delicacy.

On the a la carte menu the roast duck, char siu pork and belly of pork (£7) are rich, sumptuous, salty and crispy where appropriate. The deep fried soft shell crab (£6) is a wonder, soft pure white flesh covered in a spicy chilli crunch. The whole fresh baked lobster in a variety of sauces is astounding yet simple (£20), and the delicious chicken in cashew nuts has a hint of chilli and a moreish tanginess (£8). Other meat and seafood dishes to try include the fillet steak in black bean sauce (£8), deep fried oysters (£10) and sauteed prawns with hot garlic sauce (£10). Meanwhile the fried noodles and rice (from £3 - £7) provide a great accompaniment to such intense flavours. Abalone and stewed eel hot pot (£12) and baked chicken (£12 for half) are both impressive and seem to be exactly what keeps the punters rolling in, day and night.

The Drink
The wine list is acceptably extensive offering reds, whites and roses at varying prices. The house wine, a Sauvignon Blanc at £13 a bottle, is fresh, crisp and aptly cold – the perfect accompaniment to an indulgent meal. At the same time, juices, soft drinks and teas are of course in abundance.

The Last Word
This restaurant is an all-rounder; it provides good quality, quickly served food to the masses (quite literally) yet maintains its individual charm and character. Whether you are dining on lobster or tripe, whether you are sipping Chablis or Oolong tea, whether you are romantically feeding each other across the table in the corner or chatting to the ultra-friendly staff, you will feel welcome, relaxed and happy.

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