9 Devonshire Square,
The City,
London,
EC2M 4YL
(020) 7626 5000
The ViewLondon Review
The Cinnamon Club comes to The City with a new venue right by Liverpool Street station.
The Venue
Cinnamon Kitchen is tucked away a few minutes’ walk from busy Bishopsgate, in Devonshire Square. A covered courtyard area, Devonshire Square is surrounded by offices and other restaurants, including Devonshire Terrace and Kenza. It’s slightly too clean and clinical, but it’s quiet, which is a relief after a long day at work. The restaurant is towards the rear of the square and up a short flight of stairs; once through the entrance, the restaurant is to the right whilst the bar, Anise, is on the left. There’s also a large terrace area, but even though the courtyard is covered it’s probably best left until summertime, as it’s still quite cold.
Both the bar and the restaurant have the same colour scheme, a mix of cool greys and deep browns that give the venue a sophisticated look. Just as the Cinnamon Club was once a library, this venue used to be a warehouse; they’ve similarly kept some of the old features and an industrial style, with open ceilings that show a criss-cross of lights and metal pipework. Long mirrors line the wall in both the bar and the restaurant, and large circular lamps add a bit of sparkle. The kitchen is tantalisingly hidden behind wooden shades and you can just make out the chefs, hard at work but a bit blurry, behind them. A long metal table and row of leather chairs make up the tandoor bar by the kitchen.
The Atmosphere
There’s no escaping the City crowd but instead of packs of suits out to drown their woes in a pint you can expect a mixed, stylish crowd. Cinnamon Kitchen is, unlike many other nearby venues, open for Saturday night dinners, but Thursday and Friday nights are their busiest. Staff are personable, smartly attired and well trained in the menu – be sure to ask for recommendations.
The Food
Cinnamon Club head chef Vivek Singh is at the helm of this restaurant as well, and fans of the original should be more than happy with the menu of creative Indian dishes. Those looking for chicken tikka masala will no doubt be heading east to nearby Brick Lane, but if you’re willing to try some dishes that may seem slightly out of the ordinary for an Indian restaurant you’ll be justly rewarded.
Starters include a trio of seared scallops on a bed of kadhai mushrooms (£12); the scallops are sweet and fresh, with a lightly crisped edge, whilst the mushrooms are firm and mixed through with onions and spices. The lentil and curry leaf crusted hake (£7.50) is a thick piece of fish, and although the colourful green and orange crust is rough and spicy, it doesn’t overwhelm the subtle flavour of the fish. A glistening white mound of yoghurt-coated rice sits in the middle of the plate, perfect for cooling down the palate. From the grills menu, the bhaditraka (£8) is a lamb kebab inspired by the Manasollasa, a Hindu text written in the 12th century. Despite its imposing pedigree, the lamb is anything but complicated, with two pieces of the meat coated in a thick, nutty sauce, so tender that you don’t need a knife. A small bowl of sharp green sauce sprinkled with red slices of pickled onions add colour and depth of flavour to the dish.
From the list of mains, the aubergine tasting plate (£14) is a good choice for vegetarians looking for a bit of variety. The aubergine is prepared five ways, with a mound of pale yellow peanut rice in the middle of the plate. An aubergine curry, in a neat, wafer-thin bowl, is hot and spicy, whilst the baby aubergine is attractively presented on top of a swirl of tangy tamarind sauce. A fat slice of aubergine steak is well-textured, breaded on top and chewy in the middle, whilst the aubergine smash has an intriguingly bitter taste of horseradish. A thin wisp of aubergine fritter, poised on top of the rice, finishes off the plate. Tandoori king prawns with Bengali kedgeree (£20) is a less complicated, but still satisfying dish. The prawns are large, well cooked and nicely spiced, their flavours complemented by the dish of creamy yellow kedgeree on the side.
Desserts include a buffalo milk kulfi (£6), three scoops that sit on a sharp, spiky nest of vermicelli noodles. The kulfi is thick and rich, with a sweet, milky taste, and the sprinkles of gold leaf on top are a nice touch. A slice of spiced pistachio cake (£6.50) is incredibly moist, a nutty, bright green version of sponge, and the accompanying neon orange slices of satsuma make the dessert as colourful as it is well made.
The Drink
There are more than a hundred types of wine on offer, with a good mix of European and new world selections starting from £19 and hitting £125. There are five whites and five reds available by the glass, and the Brookfield sauvignon blanc from New Zealand (£6.30) is crisp, light and fruity. Champagnes are also listed, from £47 for a grand cru to £405 for a vintage 1997 Salon. Asian beers like Cobra and Kingfisher are available along with Thums Up, an Indian cola. A pre- or post-dinner cocktail at the adjoining bar, Anise, is highly recommended.
The Last Word
Although it has a much different look than the serious, refined Cinnamon Club, Cinnamon Kitchen is just as sophisticated.
Cinnamon Kitchen has been reviewed by 3 users