Life in the capital can often feel like a circus, so what more appropriate name for the all-singing, all-dancing restaurant, bar and entertainment venue located in Covent Garden?

The Venue
It’s pretty safe to say that Londoners who model themselves on Britney are few and far between. Even after the pop queen of turbulent times has fallen so far from her bubblegum throne, there’s something just that bit too La La Land about Miss Spears. So it’s surprising, to say the least, that when her comeback single Circus is accompanying girls dressed in basques brandishing whips as they sashay along the length of a large table-slash-stage it somehow makes perfect sense.

Circus has brought an other-wordly quality to Covent Garden that’s not only unusual to find in the tourist enclave but in fact across the capital as a whole. Increasingly, Londoners are seeking out the intimacy of supper, burlesque and cabaret clubs and Circus meshes the entertainment aspect of all three in a Tom Dixon designed space that includes space agey silver baubles dangling from the ceiling, a sublime sound system and the aforementioned communal table (fitted with steps on either end and a hoop swinging high overhead) where performances start as soon as the plates are cleared away.

The entire design of the venue lends itself to friendly socialising and it’s a slick operation that works well whether you’re watching the tongue in cheek entertainment or marvelling at the flattering lighting found in the loos’ communal hand basin area that seems to encourage gossip and telephone numbers to be exchanged even more freely. In fact, the only quibble is that the women’s loos have clearly been designed by a man – there’s no provision for quick make-up retouches beside the floor to ceiling mirrors lining the walls as the numbers of girls crouching down on their heels, lip gloss in hand bear testament.

The Atmosphere
If you don’t leave Circus having made at least a couple of new friends, you’re doing something wrong. When they’re quite literally leaping through hoops to keep you entertained it would be churlish not to have fun and the DJ who jumps behind the decks later on ensures that you’ll be dancing off your dinner and drinks till the early hours with an eclectic mix that makes a refreshing change from the usual RnB and cheese you'll find at most clubs in Covent Garden.

The Food
Refreshingly for a venue with the emphasis on entertainment, the food isn't simply a warm up act. It's popular for lunch and weekend brunch but it's at dinner that the dishes really dazzle. The tuna and salmon tartare (£9.95) is a light, fresh way to start and is served with mild wasabi, avocado and pink grapefruit salad that beautifully matches the delicate hues of the fish. The red and golden beet salad (£6.95) is just as exceptional and is served with plenty of creamy oregano goat's cheese, whole crunchy hazelnuts and lamb's lettuce.

All of the meat on the menu is cooked in a classic charcoal oven and the difference that it makes is apparent in each tender, smokey mouthful of Churrasco (£20.50) and the juices in the open cut of sirloin brim with a skilful marinade of garlic, peppercorns, chilli, lime and herbs. The execution of the Seared Cajun Tuna (£18.95) gets top marks too as do the staff who are careful to explain when it is ordered that the sushi grade tuna is only lightly seared. The cherry tomato and habanero chilli salsa that the large slice of tuna is served with is just spicy enough but it would be nice to have a little more salsa served with it so that you don't have to ration each forkful to just a little salsa with the accompanying pineapple pico. Try and squeeze in some sides too especially the fluffy cornbread (£2.95) that's served with Cajun honey butter and a vast protion of macaroni and cheese (£4.95). As with the rest of the menu, it won't do to miss desserts but share them between you and order a dessert platter (£20) that includes raspberry ripple and white chocolate cheesecake served with vanilla liqueur cream, or the Neal's Yard cheese board (£7.95).

The Drink
Drinks-wise, there’s a decent wine list that you’ll want to dip into if you’re having dinner (prices start at £4.25 a glass/£17 a bottle for Merlot or Sauvignon Blanc) but in such decadent surroundings you’ll want to make sure that at some point during the night you’re sipping cocktails (all £8.50) or Champagne (prices start at £9.50 for a glass of Perrier Jouet Grand Brut NV). The house twist on a traditional margarita – the Hibiscus Margarita - is far sweeter than the traditional recipe but it is exceptionally well made as is the Morello Cherry Cosmopolitan. The fusion of sour cherry with citrus vodka, orange liqueur, fresh lime and cranberry juice is an inspired update of the classic Cosmopolitan which can sometimes seem a bit dull now that even the most run of the mill bar tends to offer some variation on a vodka and cranberry based cocktail. However, the mixologists are sufficiently skilled to make most requests to order so if you’d rather an old favourite you’ll be in safe hands.

The Last Word
Circus should take a bow. Its tongue in cheek entertainment, friendly atmosphere and slick surroundings ensure that after a night out here, you’ll be returning for plenty of encores.

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