A family venue hanging on to its jelly, eels, pie and mash for dear tradition.

The Venue
Sure, the traditional sign that hangs above the front door may have faded a little bit, the hard wooden benches in the booths may have worn down a centimetre or two and the white tiles on the wall may have turned slightly yellow. But almost everything is as it has been for the last thirty years at this Exmouth Market joint. Even though the area has been infiltrated with hip eateries, this one refuses to shed its roots or modify them; when you step over the threshold, the food is still served over the counter on the left, the people are still cramped into the booths on the right, and the groups of familiar strangers are still huddled over the same tables in the back room.

The Atmosphere
A wave of nostalgia sweeps over once you step in. The warm and fuzzy feeling that stems from familiarity is not just a product of the unchanging (and standard pie and mash shop) decor but also the unrelenting regulars. During busy hours, the pie and mash lady will not have time to say hi, nor does her cashier sister have time to seat you and personally serve you your platter. In fact, she almost never does, so be sure to help yourself.

The Food
The pies (small for about £3.00) can sit out in a warmed container for some time, which can render the dough dry and almost rubbery. The mashed potatoes - made from scratch - are velvety but plain, and the parsley sauce aromatic but mild from the lack of salt. The dish comes together when the flavourful meat juices spill out with the fine minced meat filling, and a dash of chilli vinegar raised the stakes to piquant.

The Drink
A (cheap) mug of tea is all that is needed to complete the meal, but you can have coffee or tap water if you please.

The Last Word
Mash it up well before taking it in, but don't take too long - this time-honoured restaurant is one you should experience as soon as possible for a true taste of traditional London.

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