27-31 Clerkenwell Close,
London,
EC1R 0AT
(020) 7101 9959
The ViewLondon Review
Rub shoulders with architects, designers, journalists and other Clerkenwell folk at this kitchen-restaurant-takeaway, which serves a different menu every day from Monday to Friday.
The Venue
Tucked away in Clerkenwell Close’s Workshops, the cafe is part of a converted building in the heart of London’s design district. It’s so Clerkenwell, from the replica Eames chairs to the organic-urban vibe it has going on. Grey walls, exposed brickwork, iron pillars and industrial-style strip lighting are softened by wooden tables, a wicker basket and a bookshelf of modern cookbooks. It’s quite a small space, but they haven’t packed in the tables, so it retains a nice airy feel – and booking ahead is recommended.
The Atmosphere
The Clerkenwell Kitchen feels light, unpretentious, even slightly hippyish, full of chatter and the sound of the open kitchen clattering in the background. The average age of the clientele here is definitely middle aged and above. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, and people working in the offices and studios surrounding it come here for relaxed business lunches or a quick bite. The Clerkenwell Kitchen will also be serving dinner from 6pm to 11pm on Thursday nights from 2nd April. Service is fast and friendly; you can linger comfortably or be in and out in under half an hour.
The Food
The menu changes daily and choices are chalked up on a blackboard on the wall. There’s usually a soup (£4.50), five or six main dishes (from £7.50 - £11) and three desserts (all £4.50) to choose from. Quite a few of the options are vegetarian and all are generally made using seasonal, British produce, sourced from ethical or Fairtrade suppliers. Celeriac gratin, served as a thick wedge, is ideal comfort food on a cold day: layers of soft potato and ribbon-thin celeriac in a creamy, rich, slightly sweet cheese sauce. It comes with a simple but delicious salad, which blends the sharp bitterness of trevise leaves with refreshing fennel slices and a good slug of olive oil and lemon juice dressing. The plate of cold rare roast beef comes with a selection of three salads: celeriac remoulade, watercress and potato salad, which is light and citrussy.
The lunch menu combines a nice mixture of full flavours and wholesomeness, but the desserts are all about indulgence. Chocolate orange tart is rich and dark, with flecks of sugary marmalade peel, a fine buttery pastry, and a generous dollop of fresh whipped cream on the side. The apple crumble (a popular choice, as it’s nearly sold out) is made with really sweet, well-stewed apples and it comes with a thick homemade vanilla custard.
The Drink
The drinks list is fairly standard. The Clerkenwell Kitchen offers a choice of about seven European wines, usually organic or biodynamic, with prices from £14 to £24 a bottle or from £3.75 a glass. Beer and cider include Adnams (£4.10 a bottle), Bitburger (£3.10 a bottle) and Aspalls (£4.50 a bottle). There are loads of non-alcoholic drinks available, including sparkling elderflower cordial for £2 a glass and a good selection of Chegworth Valley fruit juices.
The Last Word
It’s hard not to like The Clerkenwell Kitchen. It has an appealing understated, wholesome feel and the food is not only lovely, it’s healthy and responsibly sourced – and the prices are fair. Pop in, fill up, and feel good.
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