A top dining experience where the focus is firmly on the food.

The Venue
The Michelin-starred Club Gascon is a small restaurant, located on the West Smithfield square in Clerkenwell. Although certainly not minimalist, the decor is simple, with dark, comfy chairs, beige tablecloths, beige marble walls and a wood floor. The only eye-catching spots of colour are in the large flower arrangements and the blue banquette along the wall. Gauzy shades keep things on the dim side and makes it a bit of a mystery for the people walking past. All in all it’s a relaxing, uncomplicated restaurant, leaving the focus on what’s really important – the meal.

The Atmosphere
Club Gascon crowds up quite quickly but the atmosphere remains laid back, with groups of friends, businesspeople entertaining international clients and couples intent on enjoying their food. Because of its location, you can expect an older clientele, synonymous with the local banks as opposed to the local art galleries. Service is lovely, approachable and chatty and great at answering questions and explaining the menu.

The Food
The restaurant’s menu is almost tapas style, with starter-sized dishes arranged into five groups. It’s recommended to choose three to four plates each (not including dessert), with the lighter dishes at the top of the list and heavier ones towards the bottom. They’re not really sharing dishes, but they’re small enough that you can have a few and not feel too full.

Although it would be nice to say that your eye is first drawn to the list of creative dishes, you’ll immediately take notice of the price: from just under a tenner to a bit over £20 per dish – and for a few of those per person – this dinner is not going to come cheap. However, if you trust in the restaurant’s reputation (and have an emergency credit card on hand) it’s best to ignore the prices and just dive in.

After an amuse bouche of succulent cubes of foie gras, the parade of food begins. A confit of organic salmon with violet tea and citrus chutney is a fantastic start: the thick rectangle of fish is a perfect, glistening peach colour, with a firm texture and a deliciously creamy taste which the bits of fruit chutney underneath lightening things up a bit. The abalone and razor clam fricassee with velvety parsnip and seaweed tartare has sweet razor clams and firm but tender abalone in a bowl of light, smooth, creamy sauce, whilst the seaweed tartare adds a fresh, grassy taste to the dish.

From the choice of five foie gras dishes, the goose foie gras with sherry is incredibly rich, with more than a hint of deep, sweet sherry – it’s so good that you’ll have to restrain yourself from licking the plate. Balanced on the side is a little red cherry. Grilled artichokes, from the vegetable category, are firm and meaty and melt in the mouth, and the sharp, acidic Diablo sauce enhances the nuttiness of the artichokes.

Roast King Scallops are meaty and hearty, slightly crisp on the outside, and served on a huge round plate with a little well in the centre for the citrus-y sauce. The Charolais beef is served faultlessly cooked to order, richly flavoured and complemented well by the salty caviar sauce. Rich gravy and spring onions deepen the flavour of the beef, and the filled bone on the side is a creative touch.

After a spicy melon gelatine palate cleanser, it’s on to the puddings, including a white chocolate boule. Much white chocolate can taste overly sugary and artificial, but this one is sinfully rich and filled with a creamy lime jelly. Sharp pineapple sauce is poured over it from a metal jug, further enhancing the different flavours. The red hot chilli berries is actually mille-feuille layers stacked with raspberries in between, delicately flavoured and crisp, but not crunchy. The cream is thick and rich, the raspberries tart and sweet, whilst the sorbet on the side is a mix of cold ice, sweet berries and a trace of hot peppers.

A set menu is also available for about £30 and a seasonal menu, that changes once a month, can be ordered for the whole table for about £40 per person (£65 with matching wines).

The Drink
Club Gascon takes serious pride in their wine list, a thick, suede-covered tome that comes in at about 27 pages. Wines are divided by their regions (of France, naturally), and glasses are available from £5.50, whereas bottles run from £24 all the way to £850. Classic cocktails are £7.50 - £9.50 and Champagne cocktails are £9, and there’s also a list of regional French aperitifs.

The restaurant’s confidence in their wine list is no doubt thanks to the sommelier, who can match each plate you order with an individual wine perfectly tailored to the flavours of the dish. The salmon is complemented by the Domaine Durey, Cotes de Gascogne 2005, a white wine that blends beautifully with the creamy flavours, whilst the sweetness of the abalone and razor clam fricassee is balanced by a light, dry Le Ciste, Cotes du Rousillon 2005. The complex flavours of the artichoke dish go well with the Marquestus, St Sardos, 2007, whilst the foie gras made with sherry finds its match in a glass of Maury, Mas Mudigliza, 2006, which is a deep, rich red similar to port. The Charolais beef works well with a berry-flavoured Chateau Robin, Cotes de Castillon, whilst the scallops taste even better with a fresh Cuvee Frederic Laplace, Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, 2006. A glass of well-balanced, sweet Muscat de Rivesaltes, Chateau de Jau, 2007, is matched with the red hot chilli berries, whilst the white chocolate boule is paired with a Sauternes, Chateau Liot, 2003.

The Last Word
Without a celebrity chef or kitschy decor to draw in the crowds, the only thing that Club Gascon relies on is its food, which is fantastically presented, amazingly creative and utterly delicious. Unsurprisingly, it's held a Michelin star for several years now. Although the prices are high, every penny is worth it and this is a perfect place to splurge for a celebration. The ultimate in luxurious eating in London.

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